PEEL-OFF FILM-FORMING COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Abstract

A film-forming cosmetic composition including, in an aqueous continuous phase, at least one legume starch having an amylose content greater than or equal to 30%, at least two plasticisers selected from polyols and water, it being understood that the polyols are present in a content ranging from 8 to 25% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Also, the use of such a composition for forming, on keratin materials, a peel-off film.

Claims

1-22. (canceled)

23. A film-forming cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous continuous phase: at least one legume starch having an amylose content greater than or equal to 30%, preferably between 30% and 75%, at least two plasticisers selected from polyols, and water, it being understood that the polyols are present in a content ranging from 8 to 25% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. The composition according to claim 23, wherein the at least one legume starch has a Brookfield viscosity in aqueous dispersion at 25° C. at 20% dry matter comprised between 10 and 10000 mPa.Math.s, preferably between 20 and 5000 mPa.Math.s, more preferably between 50 and 1000 mPa.Math.s, most preferably between 75 and 500 mPa.Math.s, and even more preferably around 150 mPa.Math.s.

25. The composition according to claim 23, wherein the at least one legume starch has an amylose content comprised within a range from 30% to 75%, preferably from 30% to 45%, and more preferably from 35% to 40%.

26. The composition according to claim 23, wherein the at least one legume starch is selected from pea starches, chickpea starches, broad bean starches, faba bean starches, bean starches, or lentil starches, and is preferably selected from pea starches, and most preferably is a Pisum sativum starch.

27. The composition according to claim 23, wherein the at least one legume starch is a hydrolysed and hydroxypropylated leguminous starch.

28. The composition according to claim 23, wherein the at least one legume starch is present in a dry matter content comprised between 0.1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 1% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

29. The composition according to claim 23, wherein the polyols are selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols (PEG) having in particular from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol and/or sorbitol units, and preferably, the polyols are glycerol and sorbitol, preferably in admixture with pentylene glycol.

30. The composition according to claim 23, wherein the composition comprises from 25 to 65% by weight of water, preferably from 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

31. The composition according to claim 23, further comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent, in particular selected from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, synthetic or hemi-synthetic gels of polyester type, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and their derivatives.

32. The composition according to claim 31, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from polysaccharides, preferably from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and mixture thereof.

33. The composition according to claim 23, further comprising an emulsifying agent of HLB comprised between 8 and 20.

34. The composition according to claim 33, wherein the emulsifying agent of HLB comprised between 8 and 20 is selected from fatty acid esters and oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers, lysophospholipids, emulsifying waxes such as self-emulsifying waxes or hydrolysed waxes, and mixtures thereof.

35. The composition according to claim 23, further comprising an additional film-forming agent other than starch, preferably selected from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulose polymers, polymers extracted from the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and/or from the alga Kappaphycus alvarezii, polymers of itaconic acid and mixtures thereof.

36. The composition according to claim 23, further comprising at least one mono-alcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.

37. The composition according to claim 23, further comprising a colouring agent, preferably selected from pigments and/or nacres.

38. The composition according to claim 23, further comprising at least one filler, preferably a mineral filler, such as kaolin.

39. The composition according to claim 23, further comprising a cosmetic active agent.

40. A method for preparing a composition according to claim 23, comprising: mixing plasticisers with water, and optionally with emulsifying and/or film-forming agents, adding starch with stirring until a gel forms, optionally adding a gelling agent, optionally adding the colouring agent, optionally adjusting the pH, and optionally adding alcohol.

41. The method according to claim 40, wherein the mixing of the plasticisers with water, and optionally with the emulsifying and/or film-forming agents, is carried out at room temperature, or at high temperature, for example at a temperature comprised between 60 and 95° C.

42. A make-up or caring method for keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the lips, consisting in applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the lips, a composition according to claim 23.

43. A method for obtaining a peel-off film from a film-forming composition, comprising applying the composition according to claim 23 to keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows or lips, so as to form a uniform liquid film, and leaving said composition to dry for 10 seconds to 15 minutes.

44. A method for forming, on keratin materials, a peel-off film, comprising applying the composition according to claim 23 to keratin materials.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Treatment Mask

[0262] A peel-off mask was prepared in the form of an aqueous gel having the composition shown in the following Table 1.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Content (% INCI Name by weight) PRE-GELATINISED PEA STARCH 23.5 (LYCOAT RS 720 FROM ROQUETTE FRERES) GLYCERINE 5 SORBITOL & WATER (70% MA) 3.5 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2.5 XANTHAN GUM 0.3 ETHYL ALCOHOL 2.5 GLYCERINE & GLYCINE SOJA 1 (SOYBEAN) SEED EXTRACT (LYSOFIX LIQUID ® BY KEMIN) KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII 0.5 EXTRACT & CAESALPINIA SPINOSA FRUIT EXTRACT & WATER FILMEXEL ® BY SILAB KAOLIN 5 DEMINERALISED WATER QSP CONSERVATIVE 0.5 CITRIC ACID QS

[0263] The conservative was dissolved under a deflocculator in water.

Lysofix Liquid® by Kemin was then added with moderate stirring until complete solubilisation.
LYOCAT RS720 and XANTHAN GUM were pasted into glycols, then the mixture was placed in a beaker.
It was then mixed until a gel was obtained.
KAOLIN and FILMEXEL® BY SILAB were added to the formula and mixed until completely dispersed.
Then citric acid was added in sufficient quantity to reach a pH around 5.
Finally, ethanol was added and mixed until completely homogenised.

[0264] The mask was applied to the skin of the face and allowed to dry. The composition spreads easily and evenly. The drying time is quite fast (between 5 and 15 minutes) and the film obtained is uniform, flexible and resistant. It can be easily removed by peeling.

[0265] For comparison, the composition of Table 1 was reproduced, wherein the pea starch (LYOCAT RS720) was replaced by a corn starch (Meritena from Tereos, Comparative 1) or by a waxy corn starch (Structure XL of Akzo Nobel, comparative 2). Tereos Meritena corn starch disperses in water but does not allow the formation of a peel-off film. The comparative composition 2 comprising waxy Structure XL corn starch by Akzo Nobel does not spread evenly. After drying, no film is formed.

Example 2: Eye Shadow

[0266] An eye shadow was prepared having the composition shown in the following Table 2:

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Content (% INCI Name by weight) PRE-GELATINISED PEA STARCH 23.5 (LYCOAT RS 720 FROM ROQUETTE FRERES) GLYCERINE 10 SORBITOL & WATER (70% MA) 3.5 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2.5 ETHYL ALCOHOL 5 SCLEROTIUM GUM & XANTHAN 0.6 GUM (ACTIGUM VSX 20) POLYSORBATE 20 0.5 COLOURING AGENTS 10 DEMINERALISED WATER QSP CONSERVATIVE 0.5 L-ARGININE 0.06

[0267] The eye shadow was prepared according to the following protocol: [0268] weigh the aqueous phase comprising water, glycerine, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, conservative and polysorbate 20 and stir it in a rotor stator at 245 rpm, [0269] add LYCOAT RS 720 with stirring, maintain stirring for 5 min at 245 rpm once the gel has formed, [0270] add Actigum VSX 20 with stirring in a rotor stator at 245 rpm, [0271] add the colouring agents with stirring in a rotor stator at 245 rpm, [0272] adjust the pH by adding arginine.

[0273] Upon application, the formula slides very well on the eyelid and its deposit is thicker than commercial eye shadows. The product does not crumble, and therefore does not deposit residue under the eye (on the cheekbone). The makeup result is intense, durable over time, and the film obtained is a peel-off film, which allows easy makeup removal.