Invisible setting and methods and tools for effecting same

Abstract

A mounting holds a grooved gemstone invisibly to a setting. One end of the mounting has arms or extensions to receive the gemstone and protrusions extending inwardly from the arms to fit in the grooves of the gemstone, the mounting further comprising a holding configuration for holding the mounting to the setting. Insertion of the mounting into the setting may in one version distort the holding configuration and levers the arms to press harder into the groove.

Claims

1. A mounting for holding a grooved gemstone invisibly to a setting, the mounting having a first end with extensions to receive the gemstone and protrusions extending inwardly from said extensions to fit within respective mounting grooves of the grooved gemstone, the mounting further comprising a holding configuration for lockingly holding said mounting to said setting, wherein the mounting is configured to be deformed upon pulling inwardly about contouring on said setting, said deformation being such as to lever said extensions to push said protrusions inwardly into said grooves, and said holding configuration is configured to protrude at least partially from a base part of said setting, said holding configuration comprising a breakable portion that deforms said mounting prior to being broken away therefrom, to catch said mounting into said setting and to lever said protrusions into said grooves.

2. The mounting of claim 1, wherein said breakable portion is designed to be broken off using a shaped mounting tool.

3. The mounting of claim 1, comprising a weakened portion for preferential deformation when being mounted.

4. The mounting of claim 3, configured to simultaneously close over said grooved gemstone and deform into said setting with a single application of force.

5. The mounting of claim 1, wherein said extensions are resilient.

6. A mounting for holding a grooved gemstone invisibly to a setting, the mounting having a first end with extensions to receive the gemstone and protrusions extending inwardly from said extensions to fit within respective mounting grooves of the grooved gemstone, the mounting further comprising a holding configuration for lockingly holding said mounting to said setting, wherein the mounting is configured to be deformed upon pulling inwardly about contouring on said setting, said deformation being such as to lever said extensions to push said protrusions inwardly into said groove, and the mounting comprising a concave base portion being flattenable to provide said deformation.

7. The mounting of claim 6, wherein said flattening is provided by a breakable portion attached to said base portion.

8. The mounting of claim 7, wherein said flattening is provided by a tool inserted via a hole into said base portion.

9. A setting for gemstones comprising a plurality of locations for holding respective gemstone mountings, each location being shaped to close upper protrusions of said mounting into grooves of a grooved gemstone to hold said gemstone to said setting, said setting being contoured to push upper parts of respective mountings inwardly to lock onto said grooves when said setting is pushed downwardly into said location, the setting configured to form an item of jewelry, said item of jewelry comprising said setting and a plurality of mountings, each mounting for holding a grooved gemstone invisibly to said setting, respective mountings having a first end with extensions to receive a respective gemstone and protrusions extending inwardly from said extensions to fit within corresponding mounting grooves of the grooved gemstone, each mounting further comprising a holding configuration for lockingly holding said respective mounting to said setting, wherein said holding configuration is configured to undergo distortion when fitting into said setting, said distortion for said lockingly holding said respective mounting to said setting.

10. The setting of claim 9, comprising a soft metal.

11. The setting of claim 9, further comprising a protruding rim extending around the setting.

12. The setting configured to form an item of jewelry according to claim 9, comprising a plurality of mountings for mounting gemstones and a plurality of gemstones mounted on said plurality of mountings and invisibly mounted on said setting, wherein said setting forms a non-planar surface comprising a curvature in at least one dimension.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

(1) Some embodiments of the invention are herein described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings. With specific reference now to the drawings in detail, it is stressed that the particulars shown are by way of example and for purposes of illustrative discussion of embodiments of the invention. In this regard, the description taken with the drawings makes apparent to those skilled in the art how embodiments of the invention may be practiced.

(2) In the drawings:

(3) FIG. 1A is a simplified schematic diagram showing a mounting according to an embodiment of the present invention holding a gemstone;

(4) FIG. 1B is a variation of the mounting of FIG. 1A;

(5) FIGS. 2A-2C are views from different angles of a setting designed with spaces to accept mountings according to FIGS. 1A-B;

(6) FIG. 3A is a simplified diagram showing a mounting according to FIGS. 1A-B being fixed into position in the setting of FIGS. 2A-C using a deformation tool;

(7) FIG. 3B is a simplified diagram showing a mounting according to FIG. 1B being fixed into position in the setting of FIGS. 2A-C using another deformation tool;

(8) FIG. 4 is a simplified diagram showing use of the deformation tool of FIGS. 3A-B from a direct angle;

(9) FIG. 5 is a simplified diagram showing a row of mounting according to an embodiment of the present invention;

(10) FIG. 6 is simplified diagram showing insertion of a gemstone onto a mounting according to the present embodiments;

(11) FIG. 7 is a simplified diagram showing a row of three mounted gemstones following the insertion procedure of FIG. 6;

(12) FIGS. 8A-8D are simplified diagrams illustrating an embodiment of a mounting in which a breakable end is used to straighten a concave base to fix the mounting into the setting;

(13) FIGS. 9A-9F are a series of simplified diagrams illustrating the use of a removable tool to straighten a concave base to fix the mounting into the setting;

(14) FIG. 10 is a simplified perspective view of a further mounting according to the present embodiments in which a screw-end is provided to the base to allow for an external threaded tool to distort the base to clasp the gemstone;

(15) FIG. 11 is a side view of the mounting of FIG. 10;

(16) FIGS. 12A-12F illustrate succeeding stages in mounting and clasping a gemstone into the mounting of FIG. 10;

(17) FIG. 13 is a three-dimensional schematic diagram showing a flat version of the invisible setting of the present embodiments, in which numerous small gemstones are mounted in a matrix;

(18) FIG. 14 is a three-dimensional schematic diagram showing a version of the invisible setting of the present embodiments in which a matrix is provided that is similar to that of FIG. 13, except that the matrix is curved in the longitudinal direction to give a wave effect;

(19) FIG. 15 is a three-dimensional schematic diagram showing a version of the invisible setting of the present embodiments in which a two layer matrix setting for a ring has a convex shape;

(20) FIG. 16 shows a version of the invisible setting of the present embodiments where the matrix provides a concave shape for a ring;

(21) FIG. 17 shows a version of the invisible setting of the present embodiments with a curve shaped setting on the upper part of a ring; and

(22) FIG. 18 is a version of the invisible setting of the present embodiments which provides a spherical-shaped mounting on a chain.

DESCRIPTION OF SPECIFIC EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION

(23) The present invention, in some embodiments thereof, relates to an invisible setting for diamonds and other precious stones in jewelry, and methods and tools for effecting such settings. In the present embodiments a mounting is used to hold the gemstone within the setting, so that the process of fixing the gemstone in position is made easier and so that distortions to the setting over time do not affect the integrity of the way in which the gemstone is held.

(24) In the present disclosure the term “gemstone” is used to refer not only to diamonds and other precious and semiprecious stones, but also to glass, metals, plastic and anything else that can be made into a decorative mounting for jewelry and like products.

(25) As will be explained in greater detail below, the mounting relies less than traditional settings on the strength of the stone to retain the stone in place, and thus the invisible setting with the mounting of the present embodiments is suitable for flawed gemstones and for weaker materials altogether.

(26) Top grade gemstones consist of alexandrites, aquamarines, diamonds, emeralds, garnet, opals, pearls, rubies, sapphires, spinets and topaz. More generally, there are over 130 types of minerals that have been used as gemstones.

(27) These include, but not limited to:

(28) Agate

(29) Alexandrite and other varieties of chrysoberyl

(30) Andalusite

(31) Axinite

(32) Benitoite

(33) Aquamarine and other varieties of beryl

(34) Bixbite (Red beryl)

(35) Cassiterite

(36) Chrysocolla

(37) Chrysoprase

(38) Clinohumite

(39) Iolite

(40) Danburite

(41) Diamond

(42) Diopside

(43) Dioptase

(44) Dumortierite

(45) Emerald

(46) Feldspar (moonstone)

(47) Garnet

(48) Hambergite

(49) Hematite

(50) Jade—jadeite and nephrite

(51) Jasper

(52) Kornerupine

(53) Kunzite

(54) Lapis lazuli

(55) Malachite

(56) Natural moissanite

(57) Obsidian

(58) Olivine (Peridot)

(59) Opal (Girasol)

(60) Pyrite

(61) Quartz and its varieties: Agate Amethyst (cardinal gem) Citrine Chalcedony (bloodstone) Onyx Tiger's-eye

(62) Ruby

(63) Sapphire dark blue

(64) Spinel

(65) Sugilite

(66) Tanzanite and other varieties of zoisite

(67) Topaz

(68) Turquoise

(69) Tourmaline

(70) Variscite

(71) Zeolite (Thomsonite), and

(72) Zircon

(73) In addition, artificial or synthetic materials that have been used as gems include:

(74) High-lead glass

(75) Synthetic corundum

(76) Synthetic cubic zirconia

(77) Synthetic spinel

(78) Synthetic moissanite

(79) Synthetic alexandrite

(80) Synthetic opal

(81) Synthetic turquoise

(82) Synthetic diamond

(83) Synthetic quartz

(84) Synthetic beryl

(85) cristinite

(86) YAG yttrium aluminium garnet

(87) Organic materials may also be used as gems, and examples include:

(88) Amber

(89) Ammonite—from fossils formed from the shells of extinct ammonites.

(90) Bone

(91) Coral

(92) Ivory

(93) Jet (lignite)

(94) Nacre (Mother of pearl) and

(95) Pearl.

(96) The settings and mountings may be made of injection molded or printed or other plastic, titanium, gold, silver, stainless steel, ceramic, brass, pewter, glass, and base metals in general.

(97) In addition to jewelry, the embodiments may be applied to mounting of gemstones as defined above, on fashion bags, leather bags, purses and wallets, directly on clothing and accessories, including spectacles, on white goods, on personal articles such as watches, pens, mobile telephones and mobile phone covers, etc., on other consumer articles and also to mounting on vehicles or parts of vehicles, such as the steering and dashboard on luxury cars, and onto buildings and parts of buildings. Thus precious or semi-precious stones and crystals may be set into the walls of foyers or bathrooms and the like.

(98) Before explaining at least one embodiment of the invention in detail, it is to be understood that the invention is not necessarily limited in its application to the details of construction and the arrangement of the components and/or methods set forth in the following description and/or illustrated in the drawings and/or the Examples. The invention is capable of other embodiments or of being practiced or carried out in various ways.

(99) Referring now to the drawings, FIG. 1A shows a mounting 10 which holds a grooved gemstone 12 invisibly to a setting such as a ring or other item of jewelry. The mounting 10 has a first end 14 designed to hold the gemstone 12 at groove 16 using protrusions 18 of two oppositely facing arms 20 and 22. The protrusions 18 extend inwardly from the arms 20 and 22 to fit the groove. The mounting 10 further has a holder 24 for holding the mounting to the setting.

(100) FIG. 1B likewise has a mounting for fitting gemstones. However a gap 26 in the base of the mounting provides snap-on functionality for the mounting, as will be described in greater detail below.

(101) Reference is now made to FIGS. 2A to 2C, which show different views of a setting 30 having spaces 32 for placing the gemstones in the mountings. Some of the spaces are shown filled with already mounted gemstones 34.

(102) FIG. 2A shows a perspective view of the setting. FIG. 2B shows a view from above and FIG. 2C shows a view from below. As seen in FIG. 2C the spaces 32 extend to openings 36 in the underside of the setting through which the holders 24 may poke through during the mounting process, as will be explained hereinbelow.

(103) Reference is now made to FIGS. 3A-B, which shows in greater detail how the mounting 10 with the gemstone 12 held in its arms is mounted within one of spaces 32 to the setting 30. The mounting is snapped into the space 32 so that holder 24 extends outwardly from opening 36. The walls of holder 24 are then deformed outwardly around the opening. The deformation has the effect of jamming the mounting into the space, but also presses the walls of the mounting against the convex contouring 42 of the space so that the convex contouring levers the arms 20 and 22 to press into grooves 16 of the gemstone.

(104) That is to say, the setting comprises spaces for holding mountings. Each space is shaped with a bulge or contoured, to hold the mounting and at the same time deform the mounting to close the arms into the gemstone groove. In other words, the space is contoured to lock the mounting into the setting and at the same time push the arms or upper parts of the mountings inwardly to lock onto the gemstone groove when the setting is pushed downwardly into the space, as discussed.

(105) Returning to FIG. 1B, and the mounting, and more specifically, the holder 24, is designed to be deformed when pulled into the setting. The holder 24 is hollow, and has an open slit 26 down one side. Furthermore the cylindrical outer walls 27 of the holder are relatively thin along their length in between base 28 and the meeting point 29 with the arms. The relatively thin walls combined with the open slit provide a relatively weakened portion of the mounting to provide for controlled deformation, allowing a specifically desired deformation to be preferentially caused by the mounting.

(106) As shown in FIG. 3A, the deformation may be carried out by a beveling tool 44 or the like. Beveling of the base 28 of the holder 24, as discussed, causes the arms 20 and 22 to close over the gemstone and hold the gemstone more strongly via the groove.

(107) FIG. 3B shows the use of an equivalent tool for the embodiment of FIG. 1B. In the embodiment of FIG. 1B the base is flexible because of gap 26 which is constructed therein. Tool 46 comprises a head 47 which is inserted into the base of the mounting to force the two sides of the mounting apart and thus allow the gemstone to be snapped into place.

(108) FIG. 4 is the same as FIGS. 3A-B but viewed directly from the front so that the deformation of the base 28 of the holder 24 about the opening 36 is more clearly shown.

(109) FIG. 5 shows a mounting 50 with a gemstone being placed downwardly into a space in the setting 52 prior to the deformation shown in FIG. 4. In use, a setting shaped as explained above with spaces for the mountings, is used. A mounting 50 having arms and protrusions at a distal end of the arms, is fitted with a gemstone and is pressed in the direction of arrow 54 when the arms fit into the gemstone grooves as explained above. Simultaneous pressing of the gemstone into the mounting and pushing the mounting into the space provides a single click action in which the pressure causes the contouring on the setting to distort the mounting to simultaneously catch the mounting into the space and press the arms inwardly to lock the protrusions into the gemstone grooves.

(110) Typically gemstones are mounted in rows and columns Three adjacent mountings are shown in the figure, and once the rows and columns of gemstones are filled, the mounting is invisible to the outside observer.

(111) Reference is now made to FIG. 6, which illustrates a gemstone 60 being placed in a mounting 62. Typically the gemstone may simply be placed face down on a surface and then the mounting is pressed down onto the gemstone allowing the protrusions 64 at the end of the arms 66 to snap into grooves 68.

(112) FIG. 7 shows three mounted gemstones in a row.

(113) Reference is now made to FIGS. 8A-8D, which are simplified diagrams of a third embodiment of the mounting in which the holder includes a break-off portion to carry out the deformation. Mounting 80, holding gemstone 81, comprises a pole portion 82 at the end of holder 84. The arm arrangement for holding the gemstone is unchanged and the holder 84 works in the same way to bias the arms to hold the gemstone tighter following deformation. As shown in FIG. 8A the mounting is pressed into the space in the setting via contouring 86 on the setting which deforms the mounting as it passes. The mounting 80 is snapped into the setting to the position shown in FIG. 8B and then the pole portion 82 is pulled to deform the holder further by flattening floor 88, initially concave, of the holder 82. The pole portion is broken off during the deformation to leave a clean setting and a holder with a flattened floor 88.

(114) The breakable portion 82 may be designed to be broken off using a shaped mounting tool (not shown).

(115) In either of the above embodiments, the mounting may simultaneously close over the grooved gemstone and deform into the setting with a single application of force.

(116) FIG. 8C illustrates the gemstone in situ on the mounting after the breakable portion 82 has been removed.

(117) Reference is now made to FIGS. 9A-9E, which show stages in the use of a variation of the embodiment of FIGS. 8A-D.

(118) In the variation of FIGS. 9A to 9E breakable pole portion 82 is replaced by a removable tool. Removable tool 90 comprises a cylindrical pole portion 92 and a flanged end 94. The cylindrical pole portion 92 fits into a correspondingly shaped hole 96 in concave base portion 98 of mounting 100. FIG. 9A shows the pole over the hole prior to insertion and FIG. 9B shows the pole after insertion with the flanged end pulled against the hole 96. As shown in FIG. 9B the mounting is inverted for insertion of the stone 101 and then as shown in FIG. 9C the mounting with the tool and stone are inserted into the setting 102 with the tool extending through hole 104 in the setting. As shown in FIG. 9D the mounting is pressed into position in the setting and then the tool is pulled from below. The pull from below releases the tool from the mounting, at the same time flattening the concavity of the base portion 98 and levering the arms to push inward on the gemstone.

(119) FIG. 9F shows the gemstone in situ with the tool prior to tool removal.

(120) Reference is now made to FIG. 10, which is a simplified perspective view of a further mounting 110 according to the present embodiments. In FIG. 10, a screw-end 112 is provided to the base 114 of mounting 110 to allow for an external threaded tool to distort the base 114 to clasp the gemstone 116.

(121) FIG. 11 is a side view of the mounting of FIG. 10.

(122) FIGS. 12A-12F illustrate succeeding stages in mounting and clasping a gemstone into the mounting of FIG. 10. FIG. 12A shows the holder pressed over the inverted gemstone to snap fit the gemstone from above. FIG. 12B shows the gemstone snapped into the mounting following the snap-fit operation of FIG. 12A.

(123) In FIG. 12C the mounting is lowered in the direction of arrow 118 onto setting 120. In FIG. 12D threaded tool 122 is lined up with the screw-end 112 and in FIG. 12E the screw-end is threaded into the threaded tool to distort base 114 and reinforce the holding of the gemstone by the mounting.

(124) Finally in FIG. 12F the threaded tool is removed from the mounting, which mounting is now firmly held in the setting.

(125) The different embodiments listed herein can be used with automation, such as CNC devices and robot arms. The embodiments of FIGS. 9A to 9F and FIGS. 10-12F are particularly suitable for use with a robot arm.

(126) Reference is now made to FIG. 13, which shows a flat or planar version 130 of the invisible setting of the present embodiments, in which numerous small gemstones are mounted in a matrix. A protruding rim 132 surrounding the matrix around the edge guards the matrix from damage, say from a fall.

(127) FIG. 14 shows a version 140 of the invisible setting of the present embodiments in which a matrix is provided that is similar to that of FIG. 13, except that the matrix is curved in the longitudinal direction to give a wave effect. A surrounding protruding rim 142 is shown. Thus the surface of the matrix is non-planar.

(128) More generally, the surface may be convex, concave, curved in one dimension, curved in two dimensions or even curved in three dimensions, as in the following examples.

(129) FIG. 15 shows a version 150 of the invisible setting of the present embodiments in which a two layer matrix setting for a ring has a convex shape. Different color stones are shown in each layer 152, 154 respectively, although it will be appreciated that different colors may be mixed in the same layer, or different layers may share the same colors. Likewise the stones may be of different material, thus rubies and sapphires etc. Each layer has its own separate surrounding rim, 156, 158.

(130) FIG. 16 shows a version 160 of the invisible setting of the present embodiments where the matrix provides a concave shape for a ring. Again, a surrounding rim 162 is provided.

(131) FIG. 17 shows a version 170 of the invisible setting of the present embodiments with a curve shaped setting on the upper part of a ring.

(132) FIG. 18 is a version 180 of the invisible setting of the present embodiments which provides a spherical-shaped mounting on a chain.

(133) Embodiments of the present invention may be used with flawed gemstones, and particularly where the flaws in the gemstones are in the region of the grooves cut in the gemstones to carry out the invisible mounting. Generally the flaws are inclusions within the gemstone which weaken the crystal structure and render it mechanically weaker. With prior art mountings gemstones in which the flaws are in the proximity of the grooves are not used simply because the mechanical pressures of the invisible mounting are too much to bear for the lessened mechanical strength of the flaw. However in the present embodiments the substantial mechanical force is directed inwards and thus the support is provided by the body of the gemstone. Hence for the first time it is possible to use gemstones having flaws around the periphery and particularly near the grooves, for invisible mounting.

(134) As well as flawed gemstones, it is also possible, for the same reason, to use weaker kinds of gemstone, as well as glass and other non-gemstone grade material. Thus, the present embodiments may be used to make realistic jewelry with invisible settings using glass and like material and false gemstones or soft gemstones.

(135) The settings themselves may be constructed of any kind of metal, including both hard metals and soft metals, and including steel, platinum, gold, silver and brass.

(136) The settings and mountings may alternatively be made of plastic. Certain products to which the embodiments are applied are generally made of plastic, such as mobile phone covers. Other products may require prototypes, and prototype settings may be made of plastic and then coated with metal as necessary.

(137) In the case of plastic products and prototypes, a design may be prepared using a CAD package. The CAD design may then be used as the input to a 3D printer to create the setting. The setting may be coated with gold, silver, or other metals as appropriate and the mountings and gemstones may be inserted using any of the methods discussed above. The prototype may then be inspected by the customer, and a mass-production tool prepared as necessary.

(138) It is expected that during the life of a patent maturing from this application many relevant pulse shaping and symbol decoding technologies will be developed and the scope of the corresponding terms in the present description are intended to include all such new technologies a priori.

(139) The terms “comprises”, “comprising”, “includes”, “including”, “having” and their conjugates mean “including but not limited to”.

(140) The term “consisting of” means “including and limited to”.

(141) As used herein, the singular form “a”, “an” and “the” include plural references unless the context clearly dictates otherwise.

(142) It is appreciated that certain features of the invention, which are, for clarity, described in the context of separate embodiments, may also be provided in combination in a single embodiment. Conversely, various features of the invention, which are, for brevity, described in the context of a single embodiment, may also be provided separately or in any suitable subcombination or as suitable in any other described embodiment of the invention. Certain features described in the context of various embodiments are not to be considered essential features of those embodiments, unless the embodiment is inoperative without those elements.

(143) Although the invention has been described in conjunction with specific embodiments thereof, it is evident that many alternatives, modifications and variations will be apparent to those skilled in the art. Accordingly, it is intended to embrace all such alternatives, modifications and variations that fall within the spirit and broad scope of the appended claims.

(144) All publications, patents and patent applications mentioned in this specification are herein incorporated in their entirety by reference into the specification, to the same extent as if each individual publication, patent or patent application was specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated herein by reference. In addition, citation or identification of any reference in this application shall not be construed as an admission that such reference is available as prior art to the present invention. To the extent that section headings are used, they should not be construed as necessarily limiting.