Cosmetic composition comprising silica aerogel particles, a gemini surfactant and a solid fatty substance

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition of oil-in-water type comprising: (1) hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit of mass (S.sub.M) ranging from 500 to 1500 m.sup.2/g and a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 μm ; (2) at least one gemini surfactant of formula (I): ##STR00001##
in which R.sub.1 and R.sub.3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R.sub.2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y denote, independently of one another, a —(C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.a—(C.sub.3H.sub.6O).sub.bZ group; n ranges from 1 to 10 ; and (3) at least one fatty phase comprising at least one fatty substance chosen from solid fatty substances and pasty fatty substances. The composition in accordance with the invention makes it possible to make good the lack of cutaneous lipids in dehydrated skin, and to provide comfort and persistent nutrition, while at the same time having sensory properties, for example a non-greasy and non-tacky effect and a matt skin appearance, and also good skin penetration properties, even with a high level of solid fatty substance.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition of oil-in-water emulsion type comprising: (1) from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having a specific surface area per unit of mass (S.sub.M) ranging from 500 to 1500 m.sup.2/g and a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, and wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g of particles; (2) from 0.01% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one gemini surfactant of formula (I): ##STR00004## in which: R.sub.1 and R.sub.3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R.sub.2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y denote, independently of one another, a —(C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.a—(C.sub.3H.sub.6O).sub.bZ group, where: Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a —CH.sub.2—COOM, —SO.sub.3M, —P(O)(OM).sub.2, —C.sub.2H.sub.4—SO.sub.3M, —C.sub.3H.sub.6—SO.sub.3M or —CH.sub.2(CHOH).sub.4CH.sub.2OH radical, where M represents H or an alkali metal ion or alkaline earth metal ion or ammonium ion or alkanolammonium ion, a ranges from 0 to 15, b ranges from 0 to 10, and the sum of a +b ranges from 1 to 25; and n ranges from 1 to 10; and (3) at least one fatty phase comprising between 2% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one fatty substance chosen from solid fatty substances and pasty fatty substances.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein each of the R.sub.1—CO— and R.sub.3—CO— groups comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein, for the gemini surfactant of formula (I), for each of the X and Y radicals, the sum of a and b has a mean value ranging from 10 to 20.

4. Composition according to claim 1, wherein, for the gemini surfactant of formula (I), Z is the —SO.sub.3M group, where M is an alkali metal ion.

5. Composition according to claim 1, wherein, for the gemini surfactant of formula (I), n is equal to 1.

6. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant of formula (I) has the following structure: ##STR00005##

7. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the pasty fatty substance(s) is (are) chosen from a mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed vegetable oils, shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty phase comprises at least one wax, at least one pasty fatty substance, and at least one oil.

9. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the level of solid fatty substances in the composition is between 2% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, wherein a composition as defined in claim 1 is applied to the keratin material.

11. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one matting filler other than hydrophobic silica aerogel is silica microspheres particles.

12. The composition according to claim 1, which further contains; (4) at least one matting filler other than hydrophobic silica aerogel.

13. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of volume S.sub.V ranging from 5 to 60 m.sup.2/cm.sup.3.

14. Composition according to claim 13, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are trimethylsiloxylated silica particles.

15. Composition according to claim 13, wherein each of the R.sub.1—CO— and R.sub.3—CO—groups comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

16. Composition according to claim 13, wherein, for the gemini surfactant of formula (I), for each of the X and Y radicals, the sum of a and b has a mean value ranging from 10 to 20.

17. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are trimethylsiloxylated silica particles.

18. Composition according to claim 17, wherein each of the R.sub.1—CO— and R.sub.3—CO— groups comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

19. Composition according to claim 17, wherein, for the gemini surfactant of formula (I), for each of the X and Y radicals, the sum of a and b has a mean value ranging from 10 to 20.

20. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the solid fatty substance(s) is (are) chosen from waxes.

21. Composition according to claim 20, wherein the wax(es) is (are) chosen from waxes, which are solid at ambient temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

22. Composition according to claim 20, wherein the wax(es) is (are) chosen from candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower seed wax and mixtures thereof.

Description

EXAMPLES

(1) The gemini surfactant used in the examples hereinafter is a mixture of behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate sold by the company Sasol under the name Ceralution® H.

Comparative Examples 1 and 2

Mature Skin Nutritive Butter

(2) The following 2 compositions were prepared.

(3) TABLE-US-00001 1 2 Phase Compositions (invention) (comparative) A Water qs for 100 qs for 100 Preservative(s) 0.25 0.25 Glycerol 3 3 B Gemini surfactant 3 3 Isononyl isononanoate 5 5 Penthaeryrtrityl tetraisostearate 2 2 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 4 4 cetearyl ethylhexanoate (and) isopropyl 5 5 myristate Polymethylene wax sold under the name 4 4 Cirebelle 303 by the company Cirebelle Carnauba wax 2 2 Caprylyl methicone sold under the name Dow 1.5 1.5 Corning FZ-3196 by the company Dow Corning Steareth-20 1 1 Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20 EO), C Polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid 0.5 0.5 partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked, sold under the name Hostacerin AMPS by the company Clariant Xanthan gum 0.25 0.25 Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 Cst) sold 2 2 under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS by the company Dow Corning D Silica aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 1 — Aerogel Fine Particles by the company Dow Corning E Silica microspheres sold under the name SB 3 3 700 by the company Miyoshi Kasei
Manufacturing Process Homogenize phase A while heating to 80° C.; Melt phase B in a water bath and homogenize; Form the emulsion by adding A to B at 75° C.; Add phase C; Cool with gentle stirring and then add the fillers D and E at 25° C.
Results of the Comparative Evaluation:

(4) TABLE-US-00002 1 (invention) 2 (comparative) Sensory Texture which melts away, Spreading more difficult, results spreads easily and penetrates penetrates slowly, leaves rapidly, not very greasy, leaves the the skin tacky and shiny skin non-greasy and with a matt appearance

Comparative Examples 3 and 4

Anti-Aging Smoothing Care Product

(5) The following 2 compositions were prepared.

(6) TABLE-US-00003 Phase Compositions 3 (invention) 4 (comparative) A Water qs for 100 qs for 100 Preservative(s) 0.3 0.3 Glycerol 7 7 B Gemini surfactant 3 3 Polymethylene wax sold under the name 4 4 Cirebelle 303 by the company Cirebelle Carnauba wax 0.75 0.75 Beeswax 3 3 Pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate 3 3 Isohexadecane 11 11 Hexyldecanol/hexadecyl laurate 2 2 Mixture of vegetable waxes sold under the name 5 5 Hydracire S by the company Gattefossé Dimethicone 2.5 2.5 C Polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid 0.5 0.5 partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked, sold under the name Hostacerin AMPS by the company Clariant Xanthan gum 0.25 0.25 Polydimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 Cst) sold 2 2 under the name Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS by the company Dow Corning D Silica aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 0.8 — Aerogel Fine Particles by the company Dow Corning E Silica microspheres sold under the name SB 3 3 700 by the company Miyoshi Kasei
Manufacturing Process Homogenize phase A while heating to 80° C.; Melt phase B in a water bath and homogenize; Form the emulsion by adding A to B at 75° C.; Add phase C; Cool with gentle stirring and then add the fillers D and E at 25° C.
Results of the Comparative Evaluation:

(7) TABLE-US-00004 3 (invention) 4 (comparative) Sensory Rich texture with no greasy effect, Spreading difficult, greasy results penetrates rapidly, leaves the skin on application, penetrates non-greasy and with a matt slowly, leaves the skin appearance tacky and shiny. Oily effect