COSMETIC AND/OR PHARMACEUTICAL COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A DISPERSION, METHOD FOR PREPARING SAME AND USE THEREOF FOR SKIN TREATMENT

Abstract

A cosmetic, dermatological and/or pharmaceutical composition, in particular for topical use, in the form of a dispersion of a discontinuous internal phase in a continuous external phase. One of the phases is an aqueous phase and the other is an oily phase. The composition contains a polyacrylic polymer and a consistency factor. The composition is free of surfactant and of preservative. A method for preparing the composition includes mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase so as to form a homogeneous dispersion. The dispersion thus formed is sterilized by ultra-high temperature infusion sterilization.

Claims

1-17. (canceled)

18. A cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical composition, comprising a discontinuous internal phase dispersed in a continuous external phase, one of the phases being an aqueous phase and other of the phases being an oily phase, the composition comprising a polyacrylic polymer and a consistency factor capable of increasing a viscosity of the composition utilizing a semi-solid physical thickener, which is water-insoluble and liposoluble, and the composition being free of surfactant and of preservative.

19. The composition according to claim 18, wherein the polyacrylic polymer is a crosslinked copolymer of C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl acrylate and of acrylic or methacrylic acid.

20. The composition according to claim 18, wherein the consistency factor is chosen from waxy fatty substances.

21. the composition according to claim 20, wherein the consistency factor is chosen from saturated hydrocarbons.

22. The composition according to claim 21, wherein the consistency factor is chosen from saturated C.sub.18-C.sub.30 hydrocarbons.

23. The composition according to claim 18, wherein the internal phase is an oily phase and the external phase is an aqueous phase.

24. The composition according to claim 18, further comprising at least one topically active agent.

25. The composition according to claim 24, further comprising a moisturizing agent.

26. The composition according to claim 24, further comprising an emollient agent.

27. The composition according to claim 18 is sterile according to Standard EN 556 and European pharmacopoeia.

28. The composition according to claim 27 is sterile according to the Standard EN 556 and the European pharmacopoeia, with a level of stability as obtained for a sterilizing value F0=22 minutes.

29. The composition according to claim 18 contains less than 10 ingredients in total.

30. The composition according to claim 18 is in a topically applicable form.

31. The composition according to claim 18 is in a form of a milk, a cream, a mask or a fluid.

32. A method for preparing the composition of claim 18, comprising steps of: preparing the aqueous phase and the oily phase, the oily phase contains the consistency factor, and at least one of the aqueous phase and the oily phase contains the polyacrylic polymer; and mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase to form the composition in which one of the phases is homogeneously dispersed in the other of the phases.

33. The method according to claim 32, further comprising, after the step of mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase, a step of sterilizing the composition formed by high temperature infusion.

34. The method according to claim 33, wherein the step of sterilizing the composition comprises steps of: gradually preheating the composition to an emulsion stability limit temperature; performing an ultra-high temperature infusion sterilization of the composition thus preheated, by: heating to a sterilization temperature, maintaining at the sterilization temperature, and cooling under vacuum to an end-of-sterilization temperature; and gradually cooling with stirring to a storage temperature.

35. A method of cosmetic treatment of a skin, of mucous membranes or hair, using the composition of claim 18.

36. The method of according to claim 35, further comprising a step of topically applying the composition to the skin of the mucous membranes or the hair.

37. A method of curative or preventive treatment of diseases of the skin, of the mucous membranes or of the hair, using the composition of claim 18.

Description

[0083] FIG. 1 shows images obtained under a microscope, with a 40-times magnification, of a composition in accordance with the present invention in the form of a cream, a) before and b) after a high-temperature infusion sterilization treatment; and

[0084] FIG. 2 shows images obtained under a microscope, with a 40-times magnification, of a composition in accordance with the present invention in the form of a milk, a) before and b) after a high-temperature infusion sterilization treatment.

EXAMPLE 1

[0085] A cream in accordance with the invention, particularly suitable for hypersensitive and allergic skin, is prepared by mixing the phases below. For each constituent, the percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, is indicated.

[0086] Aqueous Phase

TABLE-US-00003 Demineralized or spring water qs 100% Glycerol 5%-10%

[0087] The mixture is brought to 40° C.

[0088] Oily Phase

TABLE-US-00004 Safflower oil 5%-10% Hydrogenated shea butter 5%-10% Caprylic/capric acid triglycerides 5%-12% Behenyl alcohol 2%-7% 

[0089] The mixture is brought to 80° C., then the following ingredient is added:

TABLE-US-00005 PEMULEN ® TR-2 0.3%-0.7%.

[0090] The oily phase is gradually introduced into the aqueous phase, so as to homogeneously disperse it in the latter, and then the mixture is cooled to 28° C., and filtered.

[0091] At the end of these steps, a composition is obtained in which fine droplets of oily phase are relatively homogeneously dispersed in the aqueous phase. The viscosity of this composition is measured at 11800 cps.

[0092] The composition thus obtained is subjected to a high-temperature infusion sterilization treatment, according to the method described in document WO-A-2013/007755, by means of a sterilization device as described in said document, comprising an ultra-high temperature (UHT) infusion sterilization device, scraped-surface heat exchangers for preheating and cooling the emulsion, and means for mechanical treatment by shearing the composition at the outlet of the UHT sterilization device. The operating parameters are as follows:

[0093] a. gradually preheating the composition to a preheating temperature of 55° C.;

[0094] b. infusion-sterilizing the composition thus preheated, comprising: [0095] i. heating to a sterilization temperature of 145° C., [0096] ii. maintaining this sterilization temperature for 6 s, [0097] iii. cooling under vacuum to an end-of-sterilization temperature of 50° C.,

[0098] c. gradually cooling with stirring to a storage temperature of 30° C., via a step at 40° C.

[0099] The frequency of the heat exchangers is 50 Hz.

[0100] At the end of this sterilization method, the appearance of the composition is evaluated. This appearance is very vividly white and shiny. The feeling on the skin is that of a light and fine cream, which is easy to spread and which rapidly penetrates into the skin. The viscosity is measured at 7054 cps.

[0101] The composition is observed under a microscope (Leica ICC50HD microscope), with a 40-times magnification. The image obtained is shown in FIG. 1 (in b)). By way of comparison, the image obtained by observation under a microscope, at the same magnification, of the composition before the high temperature infusion sterilization treatment is also shown in this figure, in a). It is clearly observed therein, in particular on the magnified partial view, that the oily-phase droplets dispersed in the aqueous phase are smaller in size after the sterilization treatment. These droplets are also dispersed more homogeneously in the aqueous phase.

[0102] The size of these droplets was evaluated by means of a graduated slide fitted on the microscope, before and after the sterilization treatment. The values obtained are the following: before the sterilization treatment, the droplet size is between 5 and 8 □m; after the sterilization treatment, the droplet size is between 2 and 3 □m. The size of the oily-phase droplets dispersed in the aqueous phase is thus much smaller, and what is more with a narrower size distribution, after UHT infusion sterilization, than before such a sterilization.

[0103] The sterilization method thus not only made it possible to do away with the addition of preservatives in the composition, but it also induced an improvement in the organoleptic properties of this composition.

EXAMPLE 2

[0104] A makeup-removing milk in accordance with the invention, particularly suitable for hypersensitive and allergic skin, is prepared as described in Example 1 above, with the difference that the aqueous and oily phases have the following composition (for each constituent, the percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition is indicated):

[0105] Aqueous Phase

TABLE-US-00006 Demineralized or spring water 77% to 79% Glycerol  2% to 10%

[0106] Oily Phase

TABLE-US-00007 Squalane  5% to 10% Caprylic/capric acid triglycerides  5% to 12% Behenyl alcohol 2% to 7% C.sub.10-C.sub.30 acrylate polymer 0.3% to 0.5%

[0107] At the end of the sterilization method, a composition is obtained in which very fine droplets of oily phase are very homogeneously dispersed in the aqueous phase.

[0108] The composition is observed under a microscope, with a 40-times magnification. The image obtained is shown in FIG. 2 (in b)). By way of comparison, the image obtained by observation under a microscope, at the same magnification, of the composition before the high temperature infusion sterilization treatment is also shown in this figure, in a). It is clearly observed therein that the size of the oily-phase droplets dispersed in the aqueous phase is smaller after the sterilization treatment. The droplets are also more homogeneously dispersed therein.

EXAMPLE 3

[0109] A cream in accordance with the invention, particularly suitable for hypersensitive and allergic skin, is prepared by mixing the phases below. For each constituent, the percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, is indicated.

[0110] Aqueous Phase

TABLE-US-00008 Demineralized or spring water qs 100% Glycerol  5%-10% PEMULEN ® TR-2 0.3%-0.7%

[0111] Oily Phase

TABLE-US-00009 Safflower oil 5%-10% Hydrogenated shea butter 5%-10% Caprylic/capric acid triglycerides 5%-12% Behenyl alcohol 2%-7%. 

[0112] The composition thus obtained is subjected to a high temperature infusion sterilization treatment, according to the method described in Example 1 above.