Anhydrous composition including a lipophilic gelling agent, at least two different fillers and an oil phase

Abstract

Anhydrous compositions including from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent, from 10% to 50% by weight of fillers including at least 5% by weight of a first filler and at least 5% by weight of a second filler different from the first; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase are provided.

Claims

1. An anhydrous composition comprising: based on a total weight of the composition, from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent; from 10% to 50% by weight of fillers including at least 5% by weight of a first filler and at least 5% by weight of a second filler different from the first; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase; wherein the first filler and the second filler are selected from the group consisting of spherical cellulose particles, powders of an N-acylamino acid comprising a C8-C22 acyl group, polyamide particles, and spherical porous silica particles.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one lipophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of a fatty acid ester of dextrin and a fatty acid of a triester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and of mono- or polyglycerol.

3. The composition of claim 2, wherein the at least one lipophilic gelling agent is a fatty acid ester of dextrin, wherein the fatty acid ester of dextrin is a mono- or polyester of dextrin and of at least one fatty acid of formula (C): ##STR00005## where: n is an integer ranging from 3 to 150; R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R—CO—) in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 is not a hydrogen atom.

4. The composition of claim 3, wherein the fatty acid ester of dextrin is a compound of formula (C) where: n ranges from 25 to 35; R—CO— is selected from the group consisting of caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl, 2-ethylhexanyl, isononanyl, isodecanyl, isotridecanyl, isomyristyl, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitolyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl, stearolyl, and a mixture thereof.

5. The composition of claim 2, wherein the at least one lipophilic gelling agent is a fatty acid of the triester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and of mono- or polyglycerol, wherein the fatty acid of the triester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and of mono- or polyglycerol is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acid comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.

6. The composition of claim 5, in which the triester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and of mono- or polyglycerol is a triester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and of monoglycerol.

7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the first filler and the second filler are selected from the group consisting of spherical cellulose particles, powders of an N-acylamino acid comprising a C8-C22 acyl group, and spherical porous silica particles.

8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the first or the second filler is a powder of lauroyl lysine.

9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the first or the second filler is spherical porous silica microparticles.

10. The composition of claim 1, comprising at least two different fillers selected from the group consisting of spherical cellulose particles and powders of an N-acylamino acid comprising a C8-C22 acyl group.

11. The composition of claim 1, comprising at least two different fillers, one of which is spherical cellulose particles, powders of an N-acylamino acid comprising a C8-C22 acyl group, or polyamide particles, and the other is spherical porous silica particles.

12. The composition of claim 1, comprising at least two different fillers, one of which is spherical cellulose particles and the other is spherical porous silica particles.

13. The composition of claim 1, comprising at least two different fillers, one of which is powders of an N-acylamino acid comprising a C8-C22 acyl group, and the other is spherical porous silica particles.

14. The composition of claim 1, comprising at least three fillers that are different from each other, one of which is spherical porous silica particles, and the other two are selected from the group consisting of spherical cellulose particles, powders of an N-acylamino acid comprising a C8-C22 acyl group, and polyamide particles.

15. The composition of claim 1, comprising at least one filler which is spherical porous silica particles, and a mass ratio R of silica/fillers other than silica is greater than or equal to 0.75.

16. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty phase comprises at least one oil.

17. The composition of claim 16, comprising from 15% to 85% by weight of at least one oil selected from the group consisting of a hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin, a Guerbet alcohol, and an ester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and of a Guerbet alcohol.

18. The composition of claim 1, comprising: from 3% to 15% by weight of the at least one lipophilic gelling agent, which is a fatty acid ester of dextrin; from 10% to 50% by weight of fillers including at least 5% by weight of spherical porous silica microparticles and at least 5% by weight of powders of an N-acylamino acid comprising a C8-C22 acyl group, a mass ratio R of silica/N-acylamino acid comprising a C8-C22 acyl group being greater than or equal to 0.75; and from 40% to 85% by weight of the at least one fatty phase comprising from 25% to 48% by weight of at least one hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin.

19. The composition of claim 1, comprising: from 3% to 15% by weight of the at least one lipophilic gelling agent, which is a fatty acid ester of dextrin; from 10% to 50% by weight of fillers including at least 5% by weight of spherical porous silica microparticles and at least 5% by weight of powders of an N-acylamino acid comprising a C8-C22 acyl group, a mass ratio R of silica/N-acylamino acid comprising a C8-C22 acyl group being greater than or equal to 0.75; and from 40% to 85% by weight of the at least one fatty phase comprising from 25% to 48% by weight of at least one hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin and from 5% to 25% by weight of at least one linear C7-C17 alkane.

20. The composition of claim 1, comprising: from 3% to 15% by weight of the at least one lipophilic gelling agent, which is a fatty acid ester of dextrin; from 10% to 50% by weight of fillers including at least 5% by weight of spherical porous silica microparticles and at least 5% by weight of spherical cellulose particles, a mass ratio R of silica/cellulose being greater than or equal to 0.75; and from 40% to 85% by weight of the at least one fatty phase comprising from 25% to 70% by weight of at least one oil selected from the group consisting of a Guerbet alcohol and an ester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and of a Guerbet alcohol.

21. The composition of claim 1, comprising: from 3% to 15% by weight of the at least one lipophilic gelling agent, which is a triester of a C8-C30 fatty acid and of mono- or polyglycerol; from 10% to 50% by weight of fillers including at least 5% by weight of spherical porous silica microparticles and at least 5% by weight of spherical cellulose particles, a mass ratio R of silica/cellulose being greater than or equal to 0.75; and from 40% to 85% by weight of the at least one fatty phase comprising from 25% to 48% by weight of at least one hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin and from 5% to 25% by weight of at least one linear C7-C17 alkane.

22. A cosmetic process for treating a keratin material, the process comprising: applying the composition of claim 1 to the keratin material.

23. An aqueous dispersion composition, comprising at least one composition of claim 1 in an aqueous phase.

24. The composition of claim 1, An anhydrous composition comprising: based on a total weight of the composition, from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent, wherein the at least one lipophilic gelling agent is a fatty acid ester of dextrin, wherein the fatty acid ester of dextrin is a mono- or polyester of dextrin and of at least one fatty acid of formula (C): ##STR00006## where: n is an integer ranging from 3 to 150; R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 each independently represent a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R—CO—) in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 is not a hydrogen atom; from 10% to 50% by weight of fillers including at least 5% by weight of a first filler and at least 5% by weight of a second filler different from the first; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase; wherein the first filler is spherical porous silica microparticles and the second filler is selected from the group consisting of spherical cellulose particles, powders of an N-acylamino acid comprising a C8-C22 acyl group, and polyamide particles, and wherein the composition has a haze value of 60 or greater.

25. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition has a haze value of from 60.2 to 98.7.

26. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition lacks pigments, dyes and nacres.

27. The composition of claim 18, wherein the composition has a haze value of 60 or greater.

28. The composition of claim 19, wherein the composition has a haze value of 60 or greater.

29. The composition of claim 20, wherein the composition has a haze value of 60 or greater.

30. The composition of claim 21, wherein the composition has a haze value of 60 or greater.

Description

EXAMPLES

(1) Compositions 1 to 12 below were prepared.

(2) TABLE-US-00001 Composition 1 2 3 4 5 Silica 25 15   17.5 25 — (Silica Beads SB-300 from the company Miyoshi Kasei) Lauroyl lysine 10 20 — —  7 (Amihope LL from Ajinomoto) Cellulose — —   12.5 10  8 (Cellulobeads USF from Daito Kasei) Dextrin palmitate 10 10   8.5 — — (Rheopearl TL2-OR from Chiba Flour Milling) Dextrin myristate — — — —   9.5 (Rheopearl MKL2 from Chiba Flour Milling) Trihydroxystearin — — —  5 — (Thixcin R from Elementis) Caprylic/capric   26.95   30.95 — 46 — triglyceride (Myritol 318 from Cognis (BASF)) Octyldodecyl — — 37 — — myristate (MOD from Gattefossé) Isopropyl myristate — — — —   30.1 (Isopropyl myristate from Cognis) Octyldodecanol — — — — 10 (Eutanol G from Cognis) Prunus armeniaca 10 10 10 — 10 kernel oil (Lipovol P from Lipo Chemicals) Isopropyl palmitate 13 14   14.45 — — (Isopropyl palmitate from Cognis) Cocoyl caprylate/ — — — — 10 caprate (Cetiol LC from Cognis) Dicaprylyl Ether — — — — 10 (Cetiol OE from Cognis) Undecane (and)  5 — —  9 — tridecane (Cetiol UT from Cognis) Candelilla cera — — —  5 — (Candelilla Wax SP 75 G from Strahl & Pitsch) Alcohol — — — —  5 Fragrance — — — —   0.3 Antioxidant    0.05    0.05    0.05 —   0.1 Composition 6 7 8 9 10 Silica 5 5 5 5 — (Silica Beads SB-300 from the company Miyoshi Kasei) Lauroyl lysine — 5 5 5 7 (Amihope LL from Ajinomoto) Cellulose 10 5 5 5 8 (Cellulobeads USF from Daito Kasei) Dextrin palmitate — — — — — (Rheopearl TL2-OR from Chiba Flour Milling) Dextrin myristate 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 (Rheopearl MKL2 from Chiba Flour Milling) Isopropyl myristate 52 24.1 19.1 19.1 24.1 (Isopropyl myristate from Cognis) Octyldodecanol 14.1 10 10 10 10 (Eutanol G from Cognis) Prunus armeniaca kernel oil 10 10 10 5 10 (Lipovol P from Lipo Chemicals) Hydrogenated cocoyl glycerides — 1 5 5 1 (Softisan 100 from Cremer Oleo) Cocoyl caprylate/caprate — 10 10 10 10 (Cetiol LC from Cognis) Glyceryl dibehenate (and) — 2 3 3 2 tribehenin (and) glyceryl behenate (Compritol 888 CG ATO from Gattefossé) Dicaprylyl Ether — 10 10 10 10 (Cetiol OE from Cognis) Glycerol — — — 5 — Glyceryl stearate — 4 4 4 4 (Dub GMS 50/50 from Stéarineries Dubois) Alcohol — 5 5 5 5 Fragrance 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Antioxidant 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Composition 11 12 Silica 15 15 (Silica Beads SB-300 from the company Miyoshi Kasei) Lauroyl lysine 20 20 (Amihope LL from Ajinomoto) Dye(s) qs qs Dextrin palmitate 10 10 (Rheopearl TL2-OR from Chiba Flour Milling) Caprylic/capric triglyceride 27.7 26.7 (Myritol 318 from Cognis) Prunus armeniaca kernel oil 7 7 (Lipovol P from Lipo Chemicals) Isopropyl palmitate 14 14 (Isopropyl palmitate from Cognis) Cera alba — 1 (Cerabeil LOR from Baerlocher) Glycerol 3 3 Alcohol 3 3 Antioxidant 0.3 0.3
Preparation Process

(3) The fatty phase is homogenized. After introducing the gelling agent, gelling phase once the desired temperature has been reached (70° C. to 80° C., depending on the case).

(4) Cooling phase, followed by adding any other ingredient of the formulation, where appropriate, and then the fillers (temperature ranging from 50° C. to 32° C.).

(5) Characterization of the Optical Properties

(6) The optical properties of compositions 1 to 10 were characterized by means of the Haze measurement (veil effect) with a commercial Hazemeter machine.

(7) The measurements were taken according to the following protocol: on a transparent plastic film (Byk), a coat with a wet thickness of 25.4 μm of the composition whose haze it is desired to evaluate is spread out, using an automatic spreader. The coat is left to dry for 1 hour at room temperature, and measurement of the haze index is then taken using a Byk Gardner brand Haze-gard.

(8) The values obtained for compositions 1 to 10 are the following:

(9) TABLE-US-00002 Composition 1 2 3 4 5 6 Measured Haze 86.7 90 87 >90 60.2 61.5 Composition 7 8 9 10 11 12 Measured Haze 61.9 67.8 67.4 69.8 97.9 98.7

(10) As a guide, it is considered that, between 20 and 60, a weak soft-focus effect was obtained, between 60 and 80, a good soft-focus effect was obtained, and, at and above 90, a very good soft-focus effect was obtained.

(11) These measurements thus show that the compositions in accordance with the invention make it possible to obtain a large soft-focus effect.

(12) Sensory Evaluation:

(13) The sensory properties of compositions 1 to 12 were evaluated after applying them to the skin. The results are summarized in the following table:

(14) TABLE-US-00003 Composition Sensory properties 1 rapid penetration, not tacky, not glossy, no film or white film, velvety skin finish 2 rapid penetration, not glossy, not tacky, no film, very soft skin finish and powdery sensation 3 rapid penetration, not tacky, not glossy, powdery skin finish 4 not evaluated 5 relatively slow penetration, soft skin finish, very slightly tacky, film-forming effect with an oily feel 6 powdery and soft, dry skin finish, not tacky 7 slow penetration, greasy texture with transformation to a soft feel, very slightly film-forming and tacky 8 relatively rapid penetration, not glossy, not tacky, not film-forming, powdery skin finish 9 relatively slow penetration with moderate glidance, slightly film-forming and tacky, powdery skin finish 10 rapid penetration, slightly glossy, not tacky, relatively film-forming, powdery skin finish 11 rapid penetration, not glossy, not tacky, very soft skin finish and powdery sensation 12 rapid penetration, not glossy, not tacky, very soft skin finish and powdery sensation

(15) The sensory properties of compositions 1 to 12 according to the invention are good, and especially in terms of soft skin finish and absence of tack.

(16) Stability

(17) The stability of compositions 1 to 12 was evaluated over a period of 2 months at room temperature (25° C.).

(18) All the compositions are stable after 2 months of storage at 25° C.