PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A DYED FABRIC USING ENZYME AGGREGATES
20170298565 · 2017-10-19
Inventors
- Jitka ERYILMAZ (Inegol - Bursa, TR)
- Onur YUKSELEN (Inegol - Bursa, TR)
- Ozgur COBANOGLU (Inegol - Bursa, TR)
- Erdogan Baris OZDEN (Inegol - Bursa, TR)
- Ertug ERKUS (Inegol - Bursa, TR)
- Estera Szwajcer DEY (Lund, SE)
- Cedric DICKO (Lund, SE)
- Alixander PERZON (Lund, SE)
Cpc classification
International classification
D06M16/00
TEXTILES; PAPER
Abstract
Provided is a process for the production of a dyed fabric using enzyme aggregates. In particular, provided is a process that comprises a step of providing a woven fabric that comprises a base layer and an additional layer which is located on at least one side of the fabric, wherein the yarns of the additional layer comprise fibers that are at least partially dyed, and a step of contacting the woven fabric with enzyme aggregates such as cross-linked enzyme aggregates (CLEAs), to remove at least part of the dye from at least the yarns of said additional layer. The disclosure also provides a fabric obtained with the process and garments including the fabric.
Claims
1. A process for finishing a woven fabric, said process comprising: providing a woven fabric comprising warp yarns and weft yarns woven together to form a base layer of said woven fabric, and wherein a plurality of yarns including a plurality of said warp yarns and/or a plurality of said weft yarns form an additional layer of said woven fabric in the form of over portions of yarns, said additional layer being located on at least one side of the woven fabric, wherein said plurality of yarns of said additional layer comprise fibers that are at least partially dyed; and contacting said woven fabric with enzyme aggregates, to at least partially remove dye from at least said plurality of yarns of said additional layer.
2. The process according to claim 1, wherein said plurality of yarns of said additional layer comprise cotton fibers that are at least in part indigo dyed.
3. The process according to claim 1, wherein said plurality of yarns of said additional layer comprise cotton fibers and said enzyme aggregates comprise at least one enzyme selected from the group consisting of cellulase, laccase, glucose oxidase, pectinase, xylanase, peroxidase, protease, catalase and mixtures thereof.
4. The process according to claim 1, wherein said enzyme aggregates are cross-linked enzyme aggregates (CLEAs).
5. The process according to claim 1, wherein said enzyme aggregates have a size within the range of 1 μm to 100 μm.
6. The process according to claim 1, wherein said contacting is carried out at a pH ranging from 3.5 to 9.5.
7. The process according to claim 1, wherein said enzyme aggregates have an enzymatic activity ranging from 0.5 U/ml to 100 U/ml.
8. The process according to claim 1, wherein said contacting includes contacting said woven fabric with a composition including said enzyme aggregates, said composition including a concentration of said enzymes aggregates in the range of 1 mg/g to 100 mg/g.
9. The process according to claim 1, wherein said enzyme aggregates are coupled to magnetic nano-particles.
10. The process according to claim 1, wherein said enzyme aggregates are coupled to one or more additives selected from the group consisting of carbohydrates, proteins, polyols and mixtures thereof.
11. The process according to claim 1, wherein said enzyme aggregates are coupled to at least one magnetic nano-particle and to at least one additive selected from the group consisting of carbohydrates, proteins, polyols and mixtures thereof.
12. The process according to claim 1, wherein said weft yarns include first weft yarns and second weft yarns, said warp yarns and said first weft yarns form said base layer and said over portions of said yarns include said second weft yarns along a side of said woven fabric and which float over a number of said warp yarns ranging from five to fifteen.
13. The process according to claim 1, wherein at least some of said weft yarns of have a linear density ranging from 118.2 tex (5/1 Ne) to 5.91 tex (100/1 Ne).
14. The process according to claim 1, further comprising manufacturing an article from said woven fabric prior to said contacting.
15. The process according to claim 14, wherein said article is a garment having an inner side and an outer side, and wherein said additional layer is located on the outer side of said garment.
16. The process according to claim 1, further comprising weaving un-dyed yarns to provide said woven fabric, then dyeing said woven fabric to produce a dyed woven fabric and wherein said contacting comprises contacting said dyed woven fabric.
17. A woven fabric produced according to the process of claim 1.
18. The woven fabric according to claim 17, wherein said woven fabric is a denim fabric.
19. A garment comprising a woven fabric according to claim 18, wherein said additional layer forms an outer side of said garment when said garment is worn.
20. A process for finishing a woven fabric or a garment, said process comprising: providing a woven fabric comprising warp yarns and weft yarns, and having a front side and a back side, wherein at least one of said warp yarns and said weft yarns comprise a mixture of natural fibers and synthetic fibers, wherein at least said natural fibers are dyed; and contacting said woven fabric with cross-linked enzyme aggregates (CLEAs).
21. A woven fabric formed according to the process of claim 20.
22. A clothing article comprising the woven fabric according to claim 21.
23. A process for finishing a woven fabric, said process comprising: providing a woven fabric with yarns comprising warp yarns and weft yarns woven together, at least some of said yarns being dyed yarns; and contacting said woven fabric with enzyme aggregates to at least partially remove dye from at least part of said yarns of said fabric.
24. The process according to claim 23, wherein said dyed yarns comprise fibers that include indigo dye.
25. The process according to claim 23, wherein at least some of said dyed yarns comprise cotton fibers and said enzyme aggregates comprise at least one enzyme selected from the group consisting of cellulase, laccase, glucose oxidase, pectinase, xylanase, peroxidase, protease, catalase and mixtures thereof.
26. The process according to claim 23, wherein said enzyme aggregates are cross-linked enzyme aggregates (CLEAs).
27. The process according to claim 23, wherein said enzyme aggregates have a size within a range of 1 μm to 100 μm.
28. The process according to claim 23, wherein said contacting said woven fabric with enzyme aggregates is carried out at a pH ranging from 4.0 to 8.0.
29. The process according to claim 23, wherein said contacting is carried out at a temperature ranging from 35° C. to 55° C.
30. The process according to claim 23, wherein said enzyme aggregates have an enzymatic activity ranging from 0.5 U/ml to 100 U/ml.
31. The process according to claim 23, wherein said contacting comprises contacting said woven fabric with a composition including said enzyme aggregates, said composition including a concentration of said enzymes aggregates in a range of 1 mg/g to 100 mg/g.
32. The process according to claim 23, wherein said contacting is carried out for 10 to 90 min.
33. The process according to claim 23, wherein said enzyme aggregates are coupled to magnetic nano-particles.
34. The process according to claim 23, wherein said enzyme aggregates are coupled to one or more additives selected from the group consisting of carbohydrates, proteins, polyols and mixtures thereof.
35. The process according to claim 23, wherein said enzyme aggregates are coupled to at least one magnetic nano-particle and to at least one additive selected from the group consisting of carbohydrates, proteins, polyols and mixtures thereof.
36. The process according to claim 27, wherein said enzyme aggregates have a size within a range of 1 μm to 30 μm.
37. The process according to claim 36, wherein said enzyme aggregates have an enzymatic activity ranging from 5 U/ml to 20 U/ml.
Description
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0116] Further aspects and advantages of the present invention will be discussed more in detail with reference to the enclosed drawings, given by way of non-limiting example, wherein:
[0117]
[0118]
[0119]
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DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0126]
[0127] In particular,
[0128] The weft yarns 3,4 of the woven fabric 1, extend over and below the warp yarns 2, to provide correspondent over portions 7, 7′ and under portions 8, 8′, with respect to the warp yarns 2. As shown in
[0129] Second weft yarns 4 form over portions 7′ when they pass over the warp yarns 2, on the front side 5 of the fabric 1, and form under portions 8′ when they pass below the warp yarns 2, on the back side 6 of the fabric 1.
[0130] According to an aspect of the invention, the front side 5 of the woven fabric 1 corresponds to the external visible surface of a clothing article comprising the woven fabric 1, when the article is worn.
[0131] In the embodiment shown in
[0132] In the same embodiment, second weft yarns 4 form over portions 7′ by passing over seven warp yarns 2 and form under portion 8′ by passing below one warp yarn 2.
[0133] According to an aspect, the weft yarns of the woven fabric 1, comprise a plurality of first weft yarns 3 that are woven together with the warp yarns 2 to from a base layer 1a of the woven fabric 1, and at least one plurality of second weft yarns 4 forming an additional layer 1b of the fabric.
[0134] In the exemplary embodiment shown in
[0135]
[0136]
[0137] The process of the present invention, advantageously, allows to remove the dye, e.g. indigo dye, from the additional layer 1b, without destroying or damaging it and, without substantially affect the base layer 1a, i.e. avoiding the undesired removal of the dye from the base layer 1a, e.g., from the warp yarns 2 (and/or from the first weft yarns 3) when such yarns are dyed.
[0138] In the exemplary embodiment of
[0139] According to an aspect of the present invention, by removing the dye from the additional layer 1b by contacting the woven fabric 1 with enzyme aggregates such as CLEAs, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric 1 having a worn-out look, i.e. a stone-washed effect, on the additional layer 1b, without destroying or damaging it and without substantially affecting the base layer 1a.
[0140] It has to be noted that, at least the second weft yarns 4 of the woven fabric 1 illustrated in
[0141]
[0142] The over portions 7′ form an additional layer 1b on the front side of the fabric 1, not indicated in
[0143]
[0144] In the exemplary embodiment of
[0145]
[0146] The exemplary embodiment of the woven fabric 1, as shown in
[0147] In
[0148] According to an aspect of the invention, the front side 5 of the woven fabric 1 corresponds to the external visible surface of a clothing article (i.e. a garment) comprising the woven fabric 1, when the clothing article is worn.
[0149] In the exemplary embodiment of
[0150]
[0151] Advantageously, the process of the present invention, as above mentioned, allows to remove the indigo dye from the additional layer 1b, formed by over portions 7′, without damaging it and, without substantially affect the base layer 1a, i.e. without substantially remove the dye from the base layer 1a, e.g., from the warp yarns 2. As a result, a stone-washed effect (i.e. a worn-out effect), can be obtained on the additional layer 1b of the woven fabric 1. Therefore, the dye is mainly removed from the additional layer 1b, thus creating a visual contrast with the base layer 1a, which is substantially not affected by the process of finishing of the invention, and which can be seen through the additional layer 1b, thus creating a “three-dimensional” worn-out effect.
[0152] It has to be noted that, at least the second weft 4 yarns of the woven fabric 1 illustrated in
[0153]
[0154]
EXAMPLE 1
Production of Fabric A
[0155] A woven fabric was produced according to the weaving report of
[0156] Warp: 73,875 tex (Ne 8/1) Ring Slub Cotton
[0157] Weft 1: 84,43 tex (Ne 7/1) Ring cotton
[0158] Weft 2: 11,82 tex (Ne 50/1) Combed cotton
[0159] Warp density: 29.5 threads/cm
[0160] Weft density: 42.0 picks/cm
[0161] Three samples of the fabric of example 1 are used to carry out three different treatments according to Examples 2, 3 and 4, respectively.
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 2
Treatment with Pumice Stone
[0162] A sample of the fabric of Example 1, measuring 30 cm by 20 cm, is subjected to stone washing as follows: liquor ratio: 1:10, 150 gr of pumice stone for 1 kg of fabric, at 30° C. for 15 minutes. The result is shown in Sample 4 of
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3
Treatment by Free Enzymes
[0163] A sample of the fabric of Example 1, measuring 30 cm by 20 cm, is subjected to treatment with free enzymes, namely free cellulase, as follows: 2 mg/ml solution of free enzyme for 1 kg of fabric, pH 4.8, at 50° C. for 30 minutes. The result is shown in Sample 5 of
EXAMPLE 4
Treatment with CLEAs
[0164] A sample of the fabric of Example 1, measuring 30 cm by 20 cm, is subjected to treatment with cellulase cross-linked enzyme aggregates, i.e. cellulase CLEAs, as follows: 20 mg/ml solution of CLEAs for 1 kg of fabric, pH 4.8, at 50° C. for 30 minutes. The result is shown in Sample 6 of
EXAMPLE 5
Production of Fabric B
[0165] A woven fabric was produced according to the weaving report of
[0166] Warp1: 29.55 tex (Ne 20/1) Ring Cotton
[0167] Warp2: 29.55 tex (Ne 20/1) Ring Slub Cotton
[0168] Weft 1: 7.78 tex (70DN) Peslyc 40 lyc
[0169] Weft 2: 11.82 tex (Ne 50/1) Combed
[0170] Warp density: 33.1 threads/cm
[0171] Weft density: 54 picks/cm
[0172] Three samples of the fabric of example 5 are used to carry out three different treatments according to Examples 6, 7 and 8, respectively.
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 6
Treatment with Pumice Stone
[0173] A sample of the fabric of Example 5, measuring 30 cm by 20 cm, is subjected to stone washing as follows: liquor ratio: 1:10, 150 gr pumice stone for 1 kg of fabric, at 30° C. for 15 minutes. The result is shown in Sample 1 of
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 7
Treatment by Free Enzymes
[0174] A sample of the fabric of Example 5, measuring 30 cm by 20 cm, is subjected to treatment with free enzymes, namely free cellulase, as follows: 2 mg/ml solution of free enzyme for 1 kg of fabric, pH 4.8, at 50° C. for 30 minutes. The result is shown in Sample 2 of
EXAMPLE 8
Treatment with CLEAs
[0175] A sample of the fabric of Example 5, measuring 30 cm by 20 cm, is subjected to treatment with cellulase CLEAs as follows: 20 mg/ml solution of CLEAs for 1 kg of fabric, pH 4.8, at 50° C. for 30 minutes. The result is shown in Sample 3 of
[0176]
[0177] Samples 1-3 show that by treating a woven fabric of Example 5 with pumice stone (Sample 1) and free cellulase (Sample 2) cause the break of the additional layer of the over portions 7′ of the woven fabric 1; the base layer 1a is also damaged and dye is removed from it. On the contrary, Sample 3 shows that the process of the invention carried out on the same woven fabric 1, allows the removal of the dye from the additional layer 1b, namely from the over portion 7′; the base layer 1a is only partly decolored by the enzyme aggregates (in this case, cross-linked enzyme aggregates of cellulases) without being damaged as it occurred in Samples 1 and 2.
[0178] Similar results were obtained by testing the woven fabric of Example 1; visual results are shown in Samples 4-6 of
EXAMPLE 9
Breaking Strength—Grab Method—Tensile Strength—ASTM D5034—Modified
[0179] The tensile strength of the fabrics of Example 1 and Example 5 before and after each treatment according to the Examples above illustrated was determined.
[0180] 1. Scope
[0181] To determine the effective strength of the fabric in use, that is, the strength of the yarns in a specific width together with the additional strength contributed by adjacent yarns, the tensile strength was measured according to the standard ASTM D5034 (modified), as follows:
[0182] 2. Apparatus.
[0183] 2.1.—Tensile Testing Machine (CRE or CRT)
[0184] 2.1.1.—CRE Instron Table Model 4411, microprocessor-based control console (or similar) with crosshead speed of 12±0.5 in./min.(305±10 mm/min)
[0185] 2.1.2.—CRT Scott Model J with crosshead speed of 12±0.5 in./min.(305±10 mm/min)
[0186] 2.1.3—Both testers fitted with A-420 pneumatic clamps with 1″×3″(25.4×76.2 mm) metal face anvil on back and 1″×1″ (25.4×25.4 mm) rubber face anvil on front. Other combination of 1″(25.4 mm) wide anvil faces which allow for minimal slippage/jaw breakage of specimen may be used
[0187] 3 Specimen Preparation. [0188] 3.1. Three specimens are prepared for each of the warp and filling directions. Cut each specimen 4±0.05″ (100±1 mm) wide and at least 6″ (150 mm) long with the long dimension parallel to the direction for which the breaking load is required.
[0189] 3.1.1. Instead of cutting three single specimens in each direction, one continuous specimen of 12″ (300 mm) by minimum of 6″ (150 mm) in each direction may be cut.
[0190] 3.1.2. Garment Testing: Samples should be taken from garment panels where appropriate space permits. If the garments have sandblast finishing on the panels, specimens must be taken from the sandblasted and non-sandblasted portions for testing. [0191] 3.2. Draw a line 1.5±0.02″ (37±1 mm) from the edge of the specimen, parallel to the direction of the test used to center specimen in the clamps. No two specimens cut parallel to the warp should contain the same set of warp ends, and no two specimens parallel to the filling should contain the same set of filling picks. [0192] 3.3. Samples should be taken no nearer to the selvage than one tenth of the width of the fabric.
[0193] 4. Procedure. [0194] 4.1. Condition all test specimens in the standard atmosphere for an appropriate period depending on the fiber content of the sample. [0195] 4.2. Prepare apparatus—check the zero point of the scale prior to each series of tests. Check distance between clamps at start of test set at 3±0.05″ (76±1 mm). For the Instron 4411 or similar model, follow the instructions in the manual. [0196] 4.3. Select a load range of the testing machine such that the break occurs between 10% and 90% of full scale load. [0197] 4.4. Insert the test specimen in the clamps so that the line drawn on the sample running parallel with the direction of the test is adjacent to the side of the upper and lower jaw. [0198] 4.5. Operate the machine and read the breaking load. If a specimen slips in the jaws, breaks in the jaws or if the result falls markedly below the average for the set of specimens, discard the result and take another specimen.
[0199] 4.5.1 Criteria for a jaw break is any break occurring within 0.25″ (5 mm) of the jaw which results in a value below 50% of the average of all the other breaks.
[0200] 5. Report. [0201] 5.1 Fabric testing—Report the average of three specimens in each direction to the nearest 0.5 kg (1 lb). [0202] 5.2 Garment testing—Report the average of the set of specimens of sandblasted portion, and non-sandblasted portion in warp and fill direction to the nearest 0.5 kg (1 lb).
[0203] Results
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Tensile strength - warp direction (g): Pumice Free No treatment stone cellulase CLEAs Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Example 5 99.43 84.75 86.33 99.32 Sample 4 Sample 5 Sample 6 Example 1 65.62 33.49 46.88 64.06
[0204] In Table 1, it can be observed that, with regard to both the fabrics of Example 5 and Example 1, the treatments of the fabric with pumice stone or free cellulase cause a reduction in the tensile strength of the fabric; in other words, the fabric results to be weaker after the treatment with pumice stone or free cellulase.
[0205] On the contrary, the results reported in Table 1 indicate that the treatment of the fabrics of Example 5 and Example 1 does not substantially affect (i.e. does not substantially reduce) the tensile strength of the fabric, which remains substantially the same both before (“No treatment”) and after the treatment with CLEAs.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Tensile strength - weft direction - (KgF) Pumice Free No treatment stone cellulase CLEA Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3 Example 5 48.29 41.42 39.67 46.89 Sample 4 Sample 5 Sample 6 Example 1 49.45 23.91 48.58 49.42
[0206] Similarly to the results of Table 1, also the results reported in Table 2 show that the tensile strength (in this case, along weft direction) of both the fabrics of Example 5 and Example 1, is reduced by the treatment of the fabric with pumice stone or free cellulase.
[0207] Conversely, the tensile strength of the fabrics of both Example 5 and Example 1 is not substantially affected by treatment with CLEAs; in other words, the tensile strength of the fabric, remains substantially the same both before (“No treatment”) and after the treatment with CLEAs.
[0208] As can be observed from the Tables here above reported, the treatment with CLEAs provides for the highest preservation of tensile strength of the fabric, in comparison with pumice stone and free cellulase, in all the tests that were carried out.
[0209] In particular, taking into account the results concerning both warp (Table 1) and weft (Table 2) parts, it can be observed that pumice stone and free enzyme have a more destructive effect on fabric than CLEAs.