Oxidation dyeing process implementing a pretreatment based on a composition rich in fatty substances and on metal catalysts

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers implementing: a) a step of pretreating said fibers by application to said fibers of a cosmetic composition (B) comprising: i) at least one fatty substance in an amount of greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B); and ii) at least one metal catalyst; b) optionally a washing, rinsing, drying and/or rubbing-dry step; c) followed by a step of dyeing by application to said fibers of a cosmetic composition (A) comprising: i) at least one oxidation base, preferably chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases preferably comprising at least two nitrogen atoms, and addition salts thereof; ii) optionally at least one coupler; and iii) at least one chemical oxidizing agent. The dyeing process makes it possible to significantly improve the dyeing properties of the coloration, in particular in terms of selectivity, of chromaticity, and of color intensity and uptake. The use of a composition which is rich in fatty substances, i.e. greater than 10%, and contains at least one catalyst pretreatment, before oxidation dyeing, allows a clear improvement in the dyeing properties, in particular in terms of dye uptake onto keratin fibers, of strength and of chromaticity and of selectivity of the color.

Claims

1. A process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers, the process comprising: a) pretreating the fibers by applying to the fibers a first cosmetic composition comprising: i) at least one fatty substance in an amount of greater than or equal to about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition; and ii) at least one metal catalyst; b) optionally performing a washing, rinsing, drying, and/or rubbing-dry step; and c) dyeing the fibers by application to the fibers of a second cosmetic composition comprising: i) at least one oxidation base; ii) optionally at least one coupler; and iii) at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty substance is chosen from C.sub.6-C.sub.16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, alkanes, oils of plant origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, silicones, or combinations thereof.

3. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty substance is chosen from oils, compounds that are liquid at a temperature of 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure, mineral oils, liquid petroleum jelly, C.sub.6-C.sub.16 alkanes, volatile linear alkanes, polydecenes, liquid fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, liquid fatty alcohols, octyldodecanol, or combinations thereof.

4. The process according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of fatty substance in the first composition ranges from about 10% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

5. The process according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of fatty substance in the first composition ranges from about 40% to about 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

6. The process according to claim 1, wherein the second composition comprises at least one fatty substance.

7. The process according to claim 6, wherein the total amount of fatty substance in the second composition ranges from about 10% to about 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

8. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one metal catalyst is chosen from metal salts, metal oxides, metal complexes, complexes of transition metal salts and rare earth metal salts, or combinations thereof.

9. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one metal catalyst is chosen from compounds including manganese, iron, cobalt, copper, zinc, platinum, nickel, titanium, silver, zirconium, chromium, molybdenum, tungsten, gold, vanadium, or combinations thereof.

10. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one metal catalyst is chosen from inorganic metal salts, halides, carbonates, sulfates, phosphates, hydrated halides, or combinations thereof.

11. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one metal catalyst is chosen from organic acid salts of transition metals, organic salts of manganese, inorganic salts of rare earth metals, inorganic salts of cerium, or combinations thereof.

12. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one metal catalyst is chosen from metal salts which possess a metal in oxidation state II and two (poly)hydroxy acid-derived ligands, metal salts that are complexed with two carboxylate groups, metal salts represented by formula (I):
R—C(O)—O-M-O—C(O)—R′  (I) solvates thereof, hydrates thereof, enantiomers thereof, or combinations thereof, wherein in formula (I): M represents a metal (II) or metal.sup.2+ in oxidation state 2 or Mn.sup.2+, and R and R′, which may be identical or different, represent a (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl group.

13. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one metal catalyst is chosen from organic acid metal salts chosen from citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates, tartrates, or combinations thereof.

14. The process according to claim 1, comprising performing a rinsing and rubbing dry step.

15. The process according to claim 14, wherein the rubbing dry step is performed using a cloth or an absorbent paper.

16. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one oxidation base in the second composition is chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, heterocyclic bases comprising at least two nitrogen atoms, addition salts thereof, or combinations thereof.

17. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one chemical oxidizing agent in the second composition is chosen from hydrogen peroxide; urea peroxide; alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides; peroxygenated salts; alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal persulfates, perborates, peracids, or precursors thereof, or percarbonates, peracids, or precursors thereof.

18. The process according to claim 1, wherein at least one of the first compositions and the second composition further comprises at least one organic or inorganic basifying agent chosen from aqueous ammonia; alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates; sodium carbonate; potassium carbonate; sodium bicarbonate; potassium bicarbonate; organic amines; alkanolamines; monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C.sub.1-C.sub.4 hydroxyalkyl radicals; oxyethylanated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines; amino acids; the compounds represented by formula (III); or combinations thereof: ##STR00005## wherein in formula (III): W is chosen from a divalent C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkylene radical optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl groups or a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical, and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NR.sub.u; and R.sub.x, R.sub.y, R.sub.z, R.sub.t and R.sub.u, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl, C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl, or C.sub.1-C.sub.6 amino alkyl radical.

19. A process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers, the process comprising: a) pretreating the fibers by applying to the fibers a first cosmetic composition comprising: i) at least one fatty substance chosen from fatty substances that are liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, liquid petroleum jelly, C.sub.6-C.sub.16 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, liquid fatty alcohols, or combinations thereof, wherein the total amount of fatty substance in the first composition is at least 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition; ii) at least one metal catalyst chosen from metal salts; metal oxides; metal complexes; complexes of transition metal salts and rare earth metal salts; compounds including manganese, iron, cobalt, copper, zinc, platinum, nickel, titanium, silver, zirconium, chromium, molybdenum, tungsten, gold, vanadium, or combinations thereof; inorganic metal salts, halides, carbonates, sulfates, phosphates, hydrated halides; organic acid salts of transition metals; organic salts of manganese; inorganic salts of rare earth metals; inorganic salts of cerium; organic acid metal salts chosen from citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates, tartrates; metal salts which possess a metal in oxidation state II and two (poly)hydroxy acid-derived ligands, metal salts that are complexed with two carboxylate groups, metal salts represented by formula (I):
R—C(O)—O-M-O—C(O)—R′  (I) solvates thereof, hydrates thereof, enantiomers thereof, or combinations thereof, wherein in formula (I): M represents a metal (II) or metal.sup.2+ in oxidation state 2 or Mn.sup.2+, and R and R′, which may be identical or different, represent a (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl group; and optionally at least one organic or inorganic basifying agent; b) performing an intermediate rinsing and rubbing dry step; and c) dyeing the fibers by application to the fibers of a ready-to-use cosmetic composition comprising: i) at least one oxidation base, ii) optionally at least one coupler; iii) at least one chemical oxidizing agent, and iv) at least one organic or inorganic basifying agent.

20. A multicompartment kit comprising: a first compartment containing a first composition comprising: at least one fatty substance in an amount of greater than or equal to about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition; and at least one metal catalyst; a second compartment containing a second composition comprising: at least one oxidation base; and optionally at least one coupler; and a third compartment containing a third composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

(1) I. Compositions Tested

(2) 1/ Dyeing Process

(3) The dyeing process consists of 3 steps:

(4) Step 1: Application, with a brush, of 120 g of pretreatment per head, to dry hair, on volunteers having at least 70% grey hair. Leave-on time: 10 min at ambient temperature.

(5) Step 2: Rinsing. Rubbing dry with an absorbent towel.

(6) Step 3: Application of the mixture of the dyeing compositions (A) with a brush. 120 g overall. The leave-one time is 30 min at ambient temperature.

(7) After this leave-on time, the locks are washed with Inoa Post shampoo, rinsed and then dried. The coloration obtained is evaluated blind by hairstylists.

(8) 2/ Preparation of the Pretreatments

(9) Two Pretreatment Compositions are Prepared:

(10) TABLE-US-00001 (B) Ingredients Invention* Oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (2 OE) 2% (C.sub.8/C.sub.10/C.sub.12/C.sub.14 34/24/29/10) Alkyl 2% Polyglucoside (1,4) as an aqueous solution at 53%, non protected (pH 11.5 using NaOH) Acrylic polymer in emulsion 4% Hydrophobically modified inulin 4% Triethanolamine 1% 2-Octyldodecanol 50%  Manganese gluconate•2H.sub.2O 0.4%.sup.  Chlorhexidine digluconate in solution 0.2%.sup.  2-Phenoxyethanol 0.7%.sup.  Deionized water (qs) qs 100% *Amount: % in g for 100 g of composition (B)
3/ Preparation of the Dyeing Compositions:

(11) TABLE-US-00002 Composition (A′) Ingredients % in g Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.2% Oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol (10 OE) .sup. 1% Cetyl palmitate .sup. 2% Vitamin C: L-Ascorbic acid as a fine powder 0.12%  Oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol (20 OE) .sup. 4% Mixture of C.sub.18 to C.sub.24 linear alcohols 4.6% (C.sub.18/C.sub.20/C.sub.22/C.sub.24: 7/58/30/6) alcohol content > 95% Powdered sodium metabisulfite 0.22%  Liquid petroleum jelly  60% Oxyethylenated decyl alcohol (5 OE) 1.2% Glycerol .sup. 5% 1-β-Hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diaminobenzene 3.86%  dihydrochloride Carboxyvinyl polymer synthesized in an 0.1% ethyl acetate/cyclohexane mixture Myristyl glycol ether of Oxyethylenated 0.01%  (60 OE) cetylstearyl (C.sub.16/C.sub.18) alcohol Pure monoethanolamine 6.3% Deionized water qs 100%

(12) TABLE-US-00003 Composition C Ingredients % in g Poly[(dimethylimino)-1,3- 0.25%  propanediyl(dimethylimino)-1,6-hexanediyl dichloride] Non-stabilized polydimethyldiallylammonium 0.5% chloride at 40% in water Diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, 0.15%  pentasodium salt as a 40% aqueous solution Hydrogen peroxide as a 50% aqueous solution  12% (200 vol. aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution) Tetrasodium pyrophosphate•10H.sub.2O 0.03%  Disodium tin hexahydroxide 0.04%  Liquid petroleum jelly  20% Cetylstearyl alcohol (30/70 C.sub.16/C.sub.18) .sup. 6% Vitamin E: DL-alpha-Tocopherol 0.1% Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20 OE) .sup. 5% Protected Oxyethylenated rapeseed acid 1.3% amide (4 OE) Glycerol 0.5% Phosphoric acid (pH) qs pH Deionized water (qs) qs 100%

(13) At the time of use, the following are mixed: 60 g of the composition (A′) and 60 g of the composition (C) (Inoa oxidizing agent, 20 vol). The mixture obtained, ready-to-use composition (C), has a pH of 9.8.

(14) 4/ Results Obtained

(15) The evaluation was carried out on 3 volunteers having between 75-100% grey hair. A dark chestnut brown colour is obtained. The composition of the invention emerges as very efficient in terms of coverage of grey hair.

(16) Example of Grading on a Volunteer:

(17) TABLE-US-00004 Grading scale: coverage of grey hair 5: no coverage, 6: medium coverage, 7: good coverage, 8: very good coverage Volunteers Pretreatment with the composition of the invention (B) 1 7.5 2 7.5 3 7

Demonstration Example 2

(18) Pretreatment with the emulsion at 78.5% of oil vs aqueous-alcoholic gel pretreatment.

(19) 1/ Dyeing Process

(20) It is the same process as for example 1.

(21) The dyeing process consists of 3 steps.

(22) Step 1: Application, with a brush, of 60 g of pretreatment per half-head (comparative on one side and invention on the other), to dry hair, on volunteers having at least 70% grey hair. Leave-on time: 10 min at ambient temperature.

(23) Step 2: Rinsing. Rubbing dry with an absorbent towel.

(24) Step 3: Application, with a brush, of the mixture of dyeing compositions. 120 g overall. The leave-on time is 30 min at ambient temperature.

(25) After this leave-time, the locks are washed with Inoa Post shampoo, rinsed and then dried. The coloration obtained is evaluated blind by hairstylists.

(26) 2/ Preparation of the Pretreatments

(27) Two Pretreatment Compositions are Prepared:

(28) TABLE-US-00005 Comparative composition: (B.sub.2) Ingredients % in g Manganese gluconate•2H.sub.2O 0.4% Denatured absolute ethyl alcohol  50% Hydroxyethylcellose MW: 1,300,000 1.5% Deionized water (qs) qs 100%

(29) TABLE-US-00006 Composition of the invention (B′) Ingredients % in g Oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (2 OE) .sup. 2% (C.sub.8/C.sub.10/C.sub.12/C.sub.14: 34/24/29/10) Alkyl .sup. 2% polyglucoside (1,4) in aqueous solution at 53%, non protected (pH 11.5 using NaOH) SMDI/polyethylene glycol polymer 0.5% bearing decyl end groups, as a water-glycol solution Manganese gluconate•2H.sub.2O 0.4% Liquid petroleum jelly 78.5%  Deionized water (qs) qs 100%
3/ Preparation of the Dyeing Compositions

(30) These are the same dyeing (A′) and oxidizing (C) compositions as in Example 1.

(31) 4/ Results Obtained

(32) This comparison was carried out on 3 volunteers having between 75-100% grey hair.

(33) Example of Grading on a Volunteer:

(34) TABLE-US-00007 Grading scale: Coverage of grey hair 5 : no coverage, 6: medium coverage, 7: good coverage, 8: very good coverage Pretreatment with Pretreatment with the comparative the composition of Volunteer composition (B.sub.2) the invention (B′) 1 6.5 7.5 2 6.5 7 3 7 7.5

(35) The process of the invention which uses as pretreatment the composition (B′) or comprising at least one metal catalyst and an amount of fatty substance greater than or equal to 10%, of the invention, makes it possible to significantly improve the colouration of the hair, in particular in terms of coverage of grey hair.