Oxidation dyeing process using a composition rich in fatty substances which comprises metal catalysts and couplers

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, implementing: a) a step of treating said fibers by application to said fibers of a cosmetic composition (A) comprising: i) at least one fatty substance in an amount of greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A), at least one metal catalyst; ii) at least one coupler; iii) optionally at least one oxidation base, preferably chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, addition salts thereof and solvates thereof; b) optionally a washing, rinsing, drying and/or rubbing-dry step; c) a step of treatment by application to said fibers of an oxidizing cosmetic composition (B) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent; and it being understood that steps a), b) and c) can be carried out successively a), then b), then c), or else a) then c), followed by b). The dyeing process makes it possible to significantly improve the dyeing properties of the coloration, in particular in terms of selectivity, of chromaticity, and of color intensity and uptake. The use of a composition which is rich in fatty substances, i.e. greater than 10%, and contains at least one catalyst, as a pretreatment, before oxidation dyeing, allows a clear improvement in the dyeing properties, in particular in terms of dye uptake onto keratin fibers, of strength and of chromaticity and of selectivity of the color.

Claims

1. A process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers, the process comprising: a) treating the fibers by applying to the fibers a first cosmetic composition comprising: i) at least one fatty substance in an amount of greater than about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition, ii) at least one metal catalyst, iii) at least one coupler, and iv) optionally at least one oxidation base; b) optionally performing a washing, rinsing, drying, and/or rubbing-dry step; and c) treating the fibers by applying to the fibers a second cosmetic composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent; wherein the steps a), b), and c) can be carried out successively a), then b), then c); or else a) and c) can be carried out together, followed by b).

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty substance is chosen from C.sub.6-C.sub.16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, alkanes, oils of plant origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, silicones, or combinations thereof.

3. The process according to claim 1, wherein the fatty substance is chosen from oils, compounds that are liquid at a temperature of 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure, mineral oils, liquid petroleum jelly, volatile linear alkanes, C.sub.6-C.sub.16 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, liquid fatty alcohols, octyldodecanol, or combinations thereof.

4. The process according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of fatty substance in the first composition ranges from about 10% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

5. The process according to claim 1, wherein the second composition further comprises at least one fatty substance.

6. The process according to claim 5, wherein the total amount of fatty substance in the second composition ranges from about 10% to about 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

7. The process according claim 1, wherein the at least one metal catalyst is chosen from metal salts, metal oxides, metal complexes, complexes of transition metal salts and rare earth metal salts, inorganic metal salts, halides, carbonates, sulfates, phosphates, optionally hydrated halides, citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates, fumarates, oxalates, tartrates, metal salts which possess a metal in oxidation state II and two (poly)hydroxy acid-derived ligands, metal salts that are complexed with two carboxylate groups, metal salts represented by formula (I):
R—C(O)—O-M-O—C(O)—R′  (I) solvates thereof, hydrates thereof, enantiomers thereof, or combinations thereof, wherein in formula (I): M represents a metal (II) or metal.sup.2+ in oxidation state 2 or Mn.sup.2+, and R and R′, which may be identical or different, represent a (C.sub.1-C.sub.6)(poly)hydroxyalkyl group.

8. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one metal catalyst is chosen from compounds including manganese, iron, cobalt, zinc, platinum, nickel, titanium, silver, zirconium, chromium, molybdenum, tungsten, gold, or vanadium.

9. The process according to claim 1, wherein steps a), b), and c) are carried out successively a), then b) and then c).

10. The process according to claim 1, comprising performing a rinsing and rubbing dry step.

11. The process according to claim 1, wherein the rubbing dry step is performed using a cloth or an absorbent paper.

12. The process according to claim 1, wherein the first composition comprises at least one oxidation base chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, heterocyclic bases comprising at least two nitrogen atoms, addition salts thereof, solvates thereof, or combinations thereof.

13. The process according to claim 1, wherein the process does not use an oxidation base.

14. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one coupler in the first composition is chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers, heterocyclic couplers, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, the addition salts thereof, the addition salts thereof with an acid, or combinations thereof.

15. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one coupler in the first composition is chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, and 2, 4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene.

16. The process according to claim 1, wherein the first composition further comprises at least one alkaline agent or organic alkaline agent chosen from aqueous ammonia; alkali metal carbonates; alkali metal bicarbonates; sodium carbonate; potassium carbonate; sodium bicarbonate; potassium bicarbonate; organic amines; alkanolamines; monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C.sub.1-C.sub.4 hydroxyalkyl radicals; oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids, the compounds represented by formula (III), or combinations thereof: ##STR00005## wherein in formula (III): W is a divalent C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkylene radical optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl groups or a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical, and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as 0, or NR.sub.u; and R.sub.x, R.sub.y, R.sub.z, R.sub.t and R.sub.u, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl, C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl, or C.sub.1-C.sub.6 aminoalkyl radical.

17. The process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one chemical oxidizing agent in the second composition is chosen from hydrogen peroxide; urea peroxide; alkali metal bromates; alkali metal ferricyanides; peroxygenated salts; alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal persulfates, perborates, peracids, or precursors thereof, or percarbonates, peracids, or precursors thereof.

18. A process for the oxidation dyeing of keratin fibers, the process comprising: a) treating the fibers by applying to the fibers a first cosmetic composition comprising: i) at least one fatty substance in an amount of greater than about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition, ii) at least one metal catalyst, iii) at least one coupler, and iv) optionally at least one oxidation base; b) performing an intermediate rinsing and rubbing dry step; and c) treating the fibers by applying to the fibers a second cosmetic composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

19. A multicompartment kit comprising: a first compartment containing a first composition comprising: at least one metal catalyst, at least one coupler, and optionally at least one oxidation base; a second compartment containing a second composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent; and a third compartment containing a third composition comprising at least one fatty substance.

20. The multicompartment device according to claim 19, wherein the total amount of fatty substance in the third composition is greater than or equal to about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of the first composition, the second composition, and the third composition.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

(1) 1/Compositions Tested

(2) The dyeing process consists of 3 steps:

(3) Step 1: Application, with a brush, of the composition of the composition of the invention (A1) or of the prior art composition (A2) to natural 90%-grey hair. The composition/hair bath ratio is 10/1 (w/w). The leave-on time is 20 minutes at ambient temperature.

(4) Step 2: Rinsing then rubbing dry with an absorbent towel.

(5) Step 3: Application of the oxidizing composition (B). The mixture/hair bath ratio is 10/1 (w/w). The leave-on time is 10 minutes.

(6) After this leave-on time, the locks are washed with Inoa Post shampoo, rinsed and then dried.

(7) The compositions (A1) used in the process of the invention and (A2) used in the comparative process were prepared as follows:

(8) TABLE-US-00001 (A1) (A2) ingredients Invention* Comparative* 1-beta-hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diaminobenzene 2 2 dihydrochloride Pure monoethanolamine 2 2 2-Octyldodecanol 78.5 78.5 (C.sub.8/C.sub.10/C.sub.12/C.sub.14 34/24/29/10) 2 2 Alkyl polyglucoside (1,4) in aqueous solution at 53%, non protected (pH 11.5 using NaOH) Oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol (2 OE) 2 2 SMDI/polyethylene glycol polymer bearing 0.5 0.5 decyl end groups, as water-glycol solution Manganese gluconate•2H.sub.2O 0.4 0 Deionized water (qs) qs 100 qs 100 *Amount: % in g for 100 g of composition NB: the compositions A1 and A2 do not contain an oxidation base.

(9) Oxidizing Composition B

(10) TABLE-US-00002 Ingredients % in g Hydrogen peroxide in solution at 50% 6 (aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution 200 vol.) Protected oxyethylenated (4 OE) rapeseed amino acids 1.3 Liquid petroleum jelly 15 Non-stabilized polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride 0.5 at 40% in water Vitamin E: DL-alpha-tocopherol 0.1 Poly[dimethylimino]-1,3-propanediyl(dimethyliminio)- 0.25 1,6-hexanediyl dichloride] as a 60% aqueous solution Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20 OE) 5 Cetylstearyl alcohol (C.sub.16/C.sub.18 30/70) 6 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate•10H.sub.2O 0.03 Diethylenetriaminepentacetic acid, pentasodium salt, 0.15 as a 40% aqueous solution Disodium tin hexahydroxide 0.04 Glycerol 0.5 Deionized water (qs) qs 100

(11) 3/Results Obtained

(12) The colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta CM2600D spectrocolorimeter.

(13) The ΔE value corresponding to the colour uptake is calculated from the measured L* a* b* values. In this L* a* b* system, L* represents the intensity of the colour, a* indicates the green/red colour axis and b* indicates the blue/yellow colour axis.

(14) The lower the value of L*, the darker or more intense the colour.

(15) The colour uptake is the difference in colour between the locks of natural grey hair (NG) that are not dyed, and the locks that are dyed, and is measured by (ΔE) according to the following equation:
ΔE=√{square root over ((L*−L.sub.o*).sup.2+(a*−a.sub.o*).sup.2+(b*−b.sub.o*).sup.2)}

(16) In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on NG dyed hair according to the invention, and L*.sub.0, a.sub.0* and b.sub.0* represent the values measured on non-dyed hair. The higher the value of ΔE, the greater the colour uptake.

(17) The gain in color uptake between the process according to the invention and the comparative process is the difference between the ΔE values measured.

(18) Results:

(19) TABLE-US-00003 Gain Type of hair treated L* a* b* ΔE*ab on NG Non-treated 90% grey natural 59.89 1.07 15 hair (NG) NG treated with the composition 54.81 3.25 17.46 6.05 (A2) and then (B) (comparative) NG treated with the composition 42.66 1.43 8.01 18.6 12.55 (A1) and then (B) (invention)

(20) As the above table shows, the presence of metal catalyst in the dyeing process makes it possible to significantly improve the strength (L* much lower for the process according to the invention than for the comparative process) and the colour uptake. It should be noted that the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain very good dyeing, and this even in the absence of oxidation base. The colour uptake and intensity obtained with the dyeing process are very satisfactory.