Lip composition in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising a humectant, and treatment process using the same

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition of water-in-oil emulsion type comprising: —from 8% to 70% by weight of an aqueous phase comprising at least one moisturizer/humectant, —from 30% to 92% by weight relative to the weight of the composition of a lipophilic phase comprising: —1% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition of a polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based first oil, a volatile or non-volatile, hydrocarbon-based or silicone apolar oil, the composition comprising at least one silicon oil; —a particular solid compound whose melting point is at least 30° C., the composition comprising not more than 20% by weight of the lipophilic phase of hydrocarbon-based apolar compound of synthetic origin, —at least one emulsifying surfactant system. the invention also relates to a lip treatment process in which the composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied to the lips.

Claims

1. A water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic composition, comprising: from 15% to 55% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of an aqueous phase comprising one or more moisturizers or humectants, at least one silicon oil, and from 30% to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition of a lipophilic phase comprising: 1 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition of at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based first oil selected from the group consisting of a non-volatile ester oil, a fatty acid triglyceride which comprises from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and which is liquid at room temperature, a hydrocarbon-based plant oil, and a mixture thereof, from 8% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of at least one volatile or non-volatile, hydrocarbon-based or silicone apolar oil, from 0.15% to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition of at least one solid compound whose melting point is at least 30° C. and which is selected from the group consisting of a polar or apolar hydrocarbon-based compound, a wax and a pasty substance, and at least one emulsifying surfactant system, wherein the composition comprises at least one phenyl silicone oil, optionally bearing a dimethicone fragment and not more than 20% by weight of a lipophilic phase of a hydrocarbon-based apolar compound of synthetic origin.

2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising: at least one moisturizer or humectant selected from the group consisting of a polyhydric alcohol comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl radicals, a sugar, a urea and a derivative thereof, lactic acid and a salt thereof, hyaluronic acid and a salt thereof, an AHA, a BHA, sodium pidolate, serine, ectoin and a derivative thereof, chitosan and a derivative thereof, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindra, an acrylic acid homopolymer, β-glucan, a mixture of passion-flower oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil, a C-glycoside derivative, a musk rose oil, an extract of the zinc-enriched microalga Prophyridium cruentum, arginine, or a mixture thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises not more than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of the one or more moisturizers or humectants.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the first oil is selected from the group consisting of: a monoester of formula R.sub.1COOR.sub.2 in which R.sub.1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or aromatic fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R.sub.2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that a sum of carbon atoms of radicals R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 is greater than or equal to 18, a fatty acid triglyceride, a caprylic/capric acid triglyceride and a mixture thereof, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate or a C.sub.18-36 acid triglyceride; a hydrocarbon-based plant oil, an unsaturated triglyceride, a liquid fraction of shea butter or a liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and a mixture thereof.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the lipophilic phase comprises the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based or silicone apolar oil, which is selected from the group consisting of non-phenyl silicone oil; phenyl silicone oil optionally comprising a dimethicone fragment; a hydrocarbon-based oil or a derivative thereof, squalane, isoeicosane, naphthalene oil, a hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene, a hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutene, a hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecene; a decene/butene copolymer, a polybutene/polyisobutene copolymer; or a mixture thereof.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the lipophilic phase comprises the volatile hydrocarbon-based or silicon apolar oil, which is a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon-based oil, a fluoro oil, or a mixture thereof.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein a content of the at least one volatile or non-volatile, hydrocarbon-based or silicone apolar oil ranges from 5% to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises one or more volatile silicone oils.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one solid compound has a melting point of from 30° C. to 100° C. and is selected from the group consisting of: a polar hydrocarbon-based compound; an apolar hydrocarbon-based compound; a polar hydrocarbon-based compound; and a mixture thereof.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one emulsifying surfactant system is selected from the group consisting of a fatty acid ester of a polyol; a silicone surfactant; and a polymer of a polyoxyalkylenated glycol fatty acid ester.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifying surfactant system comprises at least one cosurfactant of a polyol alkyl ester.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein a content of the emulsifying surfactant system ranges from 1% to 6% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising: at least one dyestuff.

14. The composition according to claim 13, wherein the at least one dyestuff is in a fluid form.

15. A process for treating a subject's lips, the processing comprising: applying the composition according to claim 1 to the lips.

Description

EXAMPLE

(1) The following composition is prepared (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material, unless otherwise indicated):

(2) TABLE-US-00001 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone 20* (dispersion at 12.5% by weight; Dow Corning 5225C Formulation Aid from the company Dow Corning) Phenyl trimethicone (Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid 6 from the company Dow Corning) Apricot kernel oil (Prunus armeniaca Kernel Oil; Apricot Kernel 5 Oil from the company Desert Whale) White petroleum jelly (Vaseline Blanche Codex 236 from the 4 company Aiglon) Disteardimonium hectorite (Bentone 38 VCG from the company   0.75 Elementis) Glycerol 5 Propylene glycol 2 Propylene carbonate   0.07 Preserving agent   0.3 Sequestrant   0.05 Water qs 100 *content expressed as commercial product

(3) Preparation Protocol:

(4) The components of the oily phase are placed in a heating pan and the whole is brought to a temperature sufficient to melt the solid/pasty ingredients and to obtain a homogeneous mixture.

(5) The components of the aqueous phase are then added with stirring (Rayneri) to obtain an inverse emulsion.

(6) The deposit of the composition on the lips gives a uniform, thin, light, non-greasy and non-tacky deposit that dries quickly.

(7) The state of the lips is improved, in particular their softness. This effect is persistent even after stopping the treatment.