COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A SILICONE SURFACTANT, A SILICONE ELASTOMER POWDER AND AN ORGANO-MODIFIED CLAY
20170281479 · 2017-10-05
Assignee
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61K8/895
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/064
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q1/12
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/894
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q1/12
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
This invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion that comprises an aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous oily phase, wherein the continuous oily phase comprises: at least one organo-modified clay, with a content by weight ranging from 0.5% to 1% relative to the total weight of said composition; at least one silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin, with a content by weight ranging from 5% to 12% relative to the total weight of said composition; and at least one silicone surfactant with a content by weight ranging from 1.4% to 3% relative to the total weight of said composition; and wherein the dispersed aqueous phase comprises: water at a content by weight ranging from 15% to 25% relative to the total weight of said composition; and ethanol at a content by weight ranging from 8% to 18% relative to the total weight of said composition.
Claims
1. A composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion that comprises an aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous oily phase, wherein the continuous oily phase comprises: at least one organo-modified clay, with a content by weight ranging from 0.5% to 1% relative to the total weight of said composition; at least one silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin, with a content by weight ranging from 5% to 12% relative to the total weight of said composition; and at least one silicone surfactant having the following general formula (I): ##STR00003## where: the radicals R.sup.2 represent independently of each other, a C.sub.1-C.sub.3 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical, m is between 5 and 300, R is a group of formula —(CH.sub.2).sub.pO—(C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.x(C.sub.3H.sub.6O).sub.yR.sup.1 wherein: R.sup.1 represents H, CH.sub.3 or CH.sub.2CH.sub.3, p is an integer varying from 1 to 5, x varies from 1 to 100, y varies from 0 to 50, the units (C.sub.2H.sub.4O) and (C.sub.3H.sub.6O) of R being able to be distributed randomly or by blocks, with the content by weight of silicone surfactant being between 1.4% and 3% relative to the total weight of said composition; and wherein the dispersed aqueous phase comprises: water at a content by weight ranging from 15% to 25% relative to the total weight of said composition; and ethanol at a content by weight ranging from 8% to 18% relative to the total weight of said composition; said composition having a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 300 mPa.Math.s to 600 mPa.Math.s.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the clay is chosen from the group consisting of clays of the kaolinite family.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the organo-modified clay is chosen from hectorites modified by a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone elastomer powder is in the form of spherical particles with an average size ranging from 0.1 μm to 500 μm.
5. The composition according to claim 1, in which the silicone resin is a silsesquioxane resin.
6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone surfactant has the following formula: ##STR00004## in which: m=100, R=(CH.sub.2).sub.3—O—(C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.x—(C.sub.3H.sub.6O).sub.y—CH.sub.3, where x ranges from 3 to 100, y ranges from 1 to 50, with the ratio of the weight of the number of C.sub.2H.sub.4O over the number of C.sub.3H.sub.6O being about 42/58, and the average molecular weight of R ranging from 800 to 1 000.
7. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one oil chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof.
8. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one pigment.
9. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising particles of iron and/or titanium oxides coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate.
10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase further comprises at least one lipophilic chemical filter.
11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase further comprises additives chosen from the group consisting of active agents, coloring agents, salts, gelling agents, preservatives and mixtures thereof.
12. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition according to claim 1.
13. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for coating with keratin materials, in particular the skin, including a step for applying on said keratin materials, in particular the skin, of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to claim 12.
14. A non-therapeutic cosmetic care and/or makeup for the skin, including a step for applying on the skin of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to claim 12.
15. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the clay is chosen from the group consisting kaolinite, dickite, nacrite, the halloysite family, dombassite, antigorite, benthierine, pyrophyllite, montmorillonites, beidellite, vermiculites, talc, stevensite, hectorites possibly modified (smectite), saponites, chlorites, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof.
16. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the silicone elastomer powder is in the form of spherical particles with an average size ranging from 0.1 μm to 500 μm.
17. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the silicone elastomer powder is in the form of spherical particles with an average size ranging from 0.1 μm to 500 μm.
18. The composition according to claim 2, in which the silicone resin is a silsesquioxane resin.
19. The composition according to claim 3, in which the silicone resin is a silsesquioxane resin.
20. The composition according to claim 4, in which the silicone resin is a silsesquioxane resin.
Description
EXAMPLES
Examples 1 to 3: Influence of the Nature of the Surfactant on Stability
[0268] The examples of foundation 1 to 3 make it possible to show the superiority of the silicone surfactant of the invention with formula (I) with respect to two other silicone surfactants of different structures.
TABLE-US-00001 Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 (Invention) (Comparative) (Comparative) mass % mass % mass % A1 Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone/Dimethicone (85/15) sold 2.00 — — under the reference Abil EM 97 S by Evonik Goldschmidt (1.70 MA) PEG 10 dimethicone sold under the reference KF 6017 by Shin- — 1.70 — Etsu PEG 9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone sold under the — — 1.70 reference KF 6028 by Shin-Etsu Dimethicone (5 cSt) — 0.30 0.30 Isododecane 11.00 11.00 11.00 Phenyltrimethicone sold under the reference DC 556 2.00 2.00 2.00 by Dow Corning Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 3.00 3.00 3.00 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 8.51 8.51 8.51 Cyclohexasiloxane 12.10 12.10 12.10 Vinyl dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane cross-polymer 8.00 8.00 8.00 sold under the reference KSP 100 by Shin Etsu A2 Cyclohexasiloxane 4.00 4.00 4.00 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate sold 10.04 10.04 10.04 under the reference NAI-TAO-77891 by Miyoshi Kasei Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%) 1.72 1.72 1.72 sold under the reference NAI-C33-9001-10 by Miyoshi Kasei Red iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%) 0.33 0.33 0.33 sold under the reference NAI-C33-8001-10 by Miyoshi Kasei Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%) 0.13 0.13 0.13 sold under the reference NAI-C33-7001-10 by Miyoshi Kasei B1 Demineralized water 19.17 19.17 19.17 B2 Denatured ethanol at 96° 12.00 12.00 12.00 C Disteardimonium hectorite/propylene carbonate/isododecane 6.00 6.00 6.00 (10/3/87) sold under the reference BENTONE GEL ISD V (0.6% MA) (0.6% MA) (0.6% MA) by Elementis TOTAL 100% 100% 100%
[0269] Procedure
[0270] The constituents of phase A1 are weighed in the main beaker and stirred, at an ambient temperature using a Moritz mixer (600 to 700 rpm) for 15 minutes until homogenization.
[0271] Phase A2 is prepared separately by grinding three times, in a three-roll mill, the mixture of pigments and cyclohexasiloxane.
[0272] This phase A2 is then added into the main beaker while stirring using a Moritz mixer (700 to 800 rpm) for 30 minutes at ambient temperature.
[0273] Then the phase B1 is added under stirring in the Moritz (1000-1200 rpm) for 10 minutes, and the phase B2 by maintaining the stirring for 5 minutes.
[0274] Finally the phase C is introduced by stirring in the Moritz (1500-1600 rpm) for 10 minutes.
[0275] Stability
[0276] The stability of the product is evaluated visually, after storing for two months at 4, 25, 37 and 45° C.
[0277] Viscosity is measured according to the method described hereinabove in the description.
TABLE-US-00002 Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 (Invention) (comparative) (comparative) Viscosity 1 350 262 230 month Tamb (mPa .Math. s) Stability Good stability Poor stability Poor stability The product has a Exudation of oil on the Slight exudation of oil on the homogeneous fluid aspect, a surface at all temperatures surface at all temperatures very light oily film is and the start of flocculation and the start of flocculation at observed on the surface at at ambient temperature ambient temperature all temperatures. (consistency of the product (consistency of the product is is not homogeneous). not homogeneous).
[0278] It was therefore observed that the silicone surfactant according to the invention makes it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions with satisfactory properties, in particular in terms of stability. Such properties are not however obtained by using other silicone surfactants in light of the results obtained for the comparative examples 2 and 3.
Examples 4 and 5: Influence of the Rates of the Constituents on Stability
[0279] Example 4 (comparative) of foundation makes it possible to show that when the rate of surfactant of the invention in active material is less than the low value of the range according to the invention (1.4%), stability is insufficient.
[0280] Example 5 (comparative) of foundation makes it possible to show that when the rate of organo-modified clay is higher than the high value of the range according to the invention (1.0%) and when the rate of water is less than the low value of the range according to the invention (15%), stability is insufficient.
TABLE-US-00003 Example 4 Example 5 (Comparative) (Comparative) mass % mass % A1 Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone/Dimethicone (85/15) sold under the 1.50 2.00 reference Abil EM 97 S by Evonik Goldschmidt (1.28 MA) (1.70 MA) Isododecane 7.00 7.00 Phenyltrimethicone sold under the reference DC 556 □by Dow Corning 2.00 2.00 Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 3.00 3.00 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 10.51 25.61 Cyclohexasiloxane 16.60 2.00 Vinyl dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane cross-polymer sold under the 7.00 8.00 reference KSP 100 by Shin Etsu A2 Cyclohexasiloxane 4.00 4.00 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate sold under the 10.04 10.04 reference NAI-TAO-77891 by Miyoshi Kasei Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%) sold under the 1.72 1.72 reference NAI-C33-9001-10 by Miyoshi Kasei Red iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%) sold under the 0.33 0.33 reference NAI-C33-8001-10 by Miyoshi Kasei Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%) sold under the 0.13 0.13 reference NAI-C33-7001-10 by Miyoshi Kasei B1 Demineralized water 16.17 14.17 B2 Denatured ethanol at 96° 10.00 8.00 C Disteardimonium hectorite/propylene carbonate/isododecane (10/3/87) 10.00 12.00 sold under the reference BENTONE GEL ISD V by Elementis (1.0% MA) (1.2% MA) TOTAL 100% 100%
[0281] The compositions of the examples 4 and 5 were prepared according to the operating procedure described in examples 1 and 2.
[0282] Viscosity and Stability
[0283] Viscosity is measured according to the method described hereinabove in the description.
TABLE-US-00004 Example 4 Example 5 (comparative) (comparative) Viscosity 540 650 1 month Tamb (mPa .Math. s) Stability Poor stability Poor stability Start of flocculation (cracks) Flocculation (cracks) and and exudation of oil on the exudation of oil on the surface at all temperatures. surface at all temperatures.
[0284] The results obtained made it possible to show that the compositions of the examples 4 and 5 were not stable and therefore did not have satisfactory properties.
Example 6: Influence of Viscosity on Stability
[0285] Example 6 (comparative) of foundation makes it possible to show that when the viscosity is less than the low value of the range according to the invention (300 mPa.Math.s.), stability is insufficient.
TABLE-US-00005 Example 6 (Comparative) mass % A1 Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone/Dimethicone (85/15) sold under the 2.00 reference Abil EM 97 S by Evonik Goldschmidt (1.70 MA) Isododecane 12.00 Phenyltrimethicone sold under the reference DC 556 □by Dow Corning 2.00 Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 3.00 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 8.51 Cyclohexasiloxane 12.10 Vinyl dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane cross-polymer sold under the 8.00 reference KSP 100 by Shin Etsu A2 Cyclohexasiloxane 4.00 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate sold under the 10.04 reference NAI-TAO-77891 by Miyoshi Kasei Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%) sold under the 1.72 reference NAI-C33-9001-10 by Miyoshi Kasei Red iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%) sold under the 0.33 reference NAI-C33-8001-10 by Miyoshi Kasei Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%) sold under the 0.13 reference NAI-C33-7001-10 by Miyoshi Kasei B1 Demineralized water 19.17 B2 Denatured ethanol at 96° 12.00 C Disteardimonium hectorite/propylene carbonate/isododecane (10/3/87) sold 5.00 under the reference BENTONE GEL ISD V by Elementis (0.5% MA) TOTAL 100%
[0286] The composition of the example 6 was prepared according to the operating procedure described in examples 1 and 2.
[0287] Viscosity and Stability
[0288] Viscosity is measured according to the method described hereinabove in the description.
TABLE-US-00006 Example 6 (Comparative) Viscosity 1 month 278 Tamb (mPa .Math. s) Stability Poor stability Presence of an oily film on the surface of the product at all temperatures and more substantial sedimentation at 45° C.
Examples 7 to 9: Compositions According to the Invention
[0289] Examples 7 to 9 make it possible to illustrate the invention through different percentages of ingredients of the association.
TABLE-US-00007 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 (Invention) (Invention) (Invention) mass % mass % mass % A1 Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone/Dimethicone (85/15) sold 2.00 2.00 2.00 under the reference Abil EM 97 S by (1.70 MA) (1.70 MA) (1.70 MA) Evonik Goldschmidt Isododecane 10.00 9.00 7.00 Phenyltrimethicone sold under the reference DC 556 2.00 2.00 2.00 by Dow Corning Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 3.00 3.00 3.00 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 8.51 8.51 11.01 Cyclohexasiloxane 12.10 12.10 16.60 Vinyl dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane cross-polymer 8.00 8.00 8.00 sold under the reference KSP 100 by Shin Etsu A2 Cyclohexasiloxane 4.00 4.00 4.00 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 10.04 10.04 10.04 sold under the reference NAI-TAO-77891 by Miyoshi Kasei Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 1.72 1.72 1.72 (3%) sold under the reference NAI-C33-9001-10 by Miyoshi Kasei Red iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate (3%) 0.33 0.33 0.33 sold under the reference NAI-C33-8001-10 by Miyoshi Kasei Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.13 0.13 0.13 (3%) sold under the reference NAI-C33-7001-10 by Miyoshi Kasei B1 Demineralized water 19.17 19.17 16.17 B2 Denatured ethanol at 96° 12.00 12.00 8.00 C Disteardimonium hectorite/propylene carbonate/ 7.00 8.00 10.00 isododecane (10/3/87) sold under the reference (0.7% MA) (0.8% MA) (1.0% MA) BENTONE GEL ISD V by Elementis TOTAL 100% 100% 100%
[0290] The compositions of the examples 7 to 9 were prepared according to the operating procedure described in examples 1 and 2.
[0291] Viscosity and Stability
[0292] Viscosity is measured according to the method described hereinabove in the description.
TABLE-US-00008 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 (Invention) (Invention) (Invention) Viscosity 1 month 383 500 500 Tamb (mPa .Math. s) Stability Good stability Good stability Good stability The product has a smooth The aspect of the The product has a and homogeneous aspect at product is slightly smooth aspect. A very 25° C., tiny traces of oil are thicker at 25° C. thin oily film is observed observed at the other at all temperatures. temperatures.
[0293] These results have made it possible to demonstrate that the compositions according to the invention are stable and have satisfactory properties.