COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SYNTHETIC PHYLLOSILICATE AND A POLYOL AND/OR A UV FILTER
20170326045 · 2017-11-16
Assignee
Inventors
- Raluca LORANT (Chevilly-Larue, FR)
- Mathieu CHABRILLANGEAS (Chevilly-Larue, FR)
- Chantal JOUY (Chevilly-Larue, FR)
- Marie-Lise CHIRON (Chevilly-Larue, FR)
Cpc classification
A61Q17/04
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
Abstract
The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic composition, comprising: (a) at least one synthetic phyllosilicate having the molecular formula Mg.sub.3Si.sub.4O.sub.10(OH).sub.2; and (b) at least one polyol and/or polyol derivative, and/or at least one UV filter. The present invention further relates to the use of a synthetic phyllosilicate having the molecular formula Mg.sub.3Si.sub.4O.sub.10(OH).sub.2 for reducing the tackiness and/or for increasing the hydrating effect of said composition, the cosmetic use of said composition for topical skin and/or nail care, a cosmetic treatment method comprising topical application of said composition to the skin and/or the nails, a cosmetic method for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or the nails and/or for improving the colour and/or the homogeneity of the complexion, and a cosmetic method for preventing and/or treating signs of ageing of the skin and/or the nails comprising applying said composition to the surface of the skin and/or the nails.
Claims
1. A composition comprising: (a) at least one synthetic phyllosilicate of molecular formula Mg.sub.3Si.sub.4O.sub.10(OH).sub.2; and (b) at least one polyol, and/or polyol derivative, and/or at least one UV-screening agent.
2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition has an X-ray diffraction line greater than 9.4 Å and less than or equal to 9.8 Å.
3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition has an infrared absorption band at 7200 cm.sup.−1 corresponding to the stretching vibration attributed to the silanol groups Si—OH at the edge of the phyllosilicate leaflets.
4. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein there is no infrared absorption band at 7156 cm.sup.−1.
5. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein said synthetic phyllosilicate is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the synthetic phyllosilicate is in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcohol gel.
7. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the synthetic phyllosilicate is in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel and constitutes the aqueous phase.
8. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the synthetic phyllosilicate in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
9. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the synthetic phyllosilicate is in powder form.
10. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the synthetic phyllosilicate is in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcohol gel and in powder form.
11. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the polyols are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, glycerine, diglycerine, erythritol, pentaerithrytol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol, dulcitol, maltitol, panthenol, and also mixtures thereof.
12. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the polyol is a sugar or a sugar derivative, and also mixtures thereof.
13. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the sugar is a fatty acid ester of sugar chosen from: esters or mixtures of esters of C.sub.8-C.sub.22 fatty acid and of sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of esters of C.sub.14-C.sub.22 fatty acid and of (C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl) glucose, and mixtures thereof.
14. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the polyol(s) are monosaccharides chosen from: trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, and monosaccharides having more than 8 carbons.
15. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the polyol is a sugar chosen from: Rhamnose, Mannose, Trehalose, Talose, Fucose, Ribose, Idose, Arabinose, Gulose, Xylose, Lyxose, Altrose, Allose, Glucose, Mannose, Galactose, Lactose, Sucrose, Cellobiose, Maltose, Fucose α(1-3) Glucose and Fructose, and also mixtures thereof.
16. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the polyol and/or polyol derivative is present in a content of from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the UV-screening agent is chosen from water-soluble organic UV-screening agents, liposoluble organic UV-screening agents, insoluble organic UV-screening agents and mixtures thereof.
18. The composition as claimed in claim 17, wherein the water-soluble organic UV-screening agent is chosen from benzylidenecamphor compounds, phenyl benzimidazole compounds, and mixtures thereof.
19. The composition as claimed in claim 17, wherein the liposoluble organic UV-screening agent is chosen from dibenzoylmethane compounds, salicylic compounds, β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds, benzophenone compounds, phenyl benzotriazole compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof.
20. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the UV-screening agent(s) are present in amounts ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
21. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition is cosmetic or dermatological and comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
22. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the synthetic phyllosilicate is in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel and the UV-screening agent is a water-soluble organic UV-screening agent.
23. The composition as claimed in claim 1, said composition being in the form of a dispersion of aqueous gel or lotion type, of an emulsion with a liquid to semi-solid consistency, of direct O/W or invert W/O emulsions, or of a liquid to semi-solid suspension of emulsified gel or cream type.
24. The composition as claimed in claim 1, said composition being in the form of an emulsion, the fatty phase of which is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
25. A method for reducing the tacky effect of a composition comprising at least one polyol or a polyol derivative by using synthetic phyllosilicate of molecular formula Mg.sub.3Si.sub.4O.sub.10(OH).sub.2 as defined in claim 1.
26. A method for increasing the moisturizing effect of a composition comprising at least one polyol or a polyol derivative by using synthetic phyllosilicate of molecular formula Mg.sub.3Si.sub.4O.sub.10(OH).sub.2 as defined in claim 1.
27. A method for topically caring for the skin and/or the nails using the composition as claimed in claim 1.
28. (canceled)
29. A method for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or the nails and/or improving the color and/or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the skin and/or the nails, of at least one composition as defined in claim 1, said composition comprising at least one UV-screening agent.
30. A method for preventing and/or treating the signs of aging of the skin and/or of the nails, comprising the application, to the surface of the skin and/or the nails, of at least one composition as defined in claim 1, said composition comprising at least one UV-screening agent.
Description
EXAMPLES
Example 1: Preparation of a Synthetic Phyllosilicate that is Suitable for Use in the Invention
[0609] A synthetic phyllosilicate that is suitable for use in the invention is prepared according to the technology described in example 1 of application FR 2 977 580 from page 21, line 26 to page 23, line 20.
[0610] In the event where the phyllosilicate is in the form of an aqueous gel, the process was followed until the hydrogel formation without the drying step by lyophilization (from page 21 line 26 to page 22 line 29 of document FR 2 977 580).
[0611] Analysis of the x-ray diffractogram was performed with the aid of the materials and method used for the x-ray diffraction analyses that are detailed in application FR 2 977 580.
[0612] A characteristic diffraction line at 9.77 Å is observed.
[0613] The compositions according to the invention illustrated in the examples that follow comprise a synthetic phyllosilicate in accordance with the invention as obtained in this example 1.
Example 2: Compositions and Evaluations of the Cosmetic Properties
[0614] Evaluation of the Cosmetic Properties
[0615] For each of the compositions A, B and/or C defined hereinafter, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol. The cosmetic properties on application are evaluated, monadically, by a panel of experts trained in the description of care products. The sensory evaluation of the care products by this panel is performed as follows: the products are packaged in opaque jars or pump-dispenser bottles depending on the viscosity of the products. Within the same session, the samples are presented in random order to each panellist.
[0616] The 15 Experts Evaluated the Following Parameters: [0617] The final “tackiness” of the skin, after penetration. [0618] The penetration sensation. This sensation is opposite to the sensation of formulae which “slip” during application, that is to say a formula which remains at the surface.
[0619] The descriptors are evaluated on a 3-level scale: +, ++ and +++.
[0620] For the “tackiness” parameter: + signifies Very tacky; ++ signifies Medium tackiness or Not Very tacky; and +++ signifies Not tacky.
[0621] For the “penetration sensation” parameter: + signifies No penetration sensation; ++ signifies Medium or Little penetration sensation; and +++ signifies Great deal of penetration sensation.
[0622] 2.1 Creams of O/W Direct Emulsion Type Based on a Synthetic Phyllosilicate in Powder Form
[0623] Procedure:
[0624] Once the preserving system and the glycerine have been dissolved in water (at the necessary temperature), add the hydrophilic gelling agent with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) at approximately 70° C. until homogenization of the gel. Homogenize the fatty phase (at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase). When the mixtures of the two phases are homogeneous, form the emulsion conventionally by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase with rotor/stator (Moritz) or mixer stirring. Cool with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) and add the filler and the alcohol until a homogeneous smooth cream is obtained.
TABLE-US-00002 COMPO- COMPO- COMPO- SITION B SITION C SITION A according to according to INCI Name/Ingredients PLACEBO the invention the invention HYDROGENATED 10.0 10.0 10.0 POLYISOBUTENE PARLEAM ® from the company NOF CORPORATION ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL 2.1 2.1 2.1 (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE MONTANOV 202 ® from the company SEPPIC WATER qs qs qs GLYCERINE 5.0 5.0 5.0 PRESERVING AGENT qs qs qs SODIUM 1.2 1.2 1.2 ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 SIMULGEL EG ® from the company SEPPIC DENATURED ALCOHOL 4.0 4.0 4.0 Synthetic phyllosilicate — 2 5 (POWDER)
[0625] Results
TABLE-US-00003 COMPO- COMPO- COMPO- SITION B SITION C SITION A according to according to PLACEBO the invention the invention Tacky + ++ ++ effect Penetration ++ ++ (result > +++ (result > sensation than that than that of A) of B)
[0626] Thus, the introduction of a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for use in the invention, in this case in powder form, to compositions B and C according to the invention makes it possible to decrease the sensation of tackiness of the emulsion and to increase the sensation of penetration of the composition during application.
[0627] The higher the amount of synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for use in the invention in the compositions, the more marked are these effects.
[0628] 2.2 Creams of O/W Direct Emulsion Type Based on a Synthetic Phyllosilicate in Powder Form
[0629] Procedure:
[0630] Once the preserving system and the glycerine have been dissolved in water (at the necessary temperature), add the hydrophilic gelling agent with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) at approximately 70° C. until homogenization of the gel. Homogenize the fatty phase (at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase). When the mixtures of the two phases are homogeneous, form the emulsion conventionally by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase with rotor/stator (Moritz) or mixer stirring. Cool with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) and add the filler until a homogeneous smooth cream is obtained.
TABLE-US-00004 COMPO- COMPO- COMPO- SITION B SITION C SITION A according to according to INCI Name/Ingredients PLACEBO the invention the invention HYDROGENATED 12.0 12.0 12.0 POLYISOBUTENE PARLEAM ® from the company NOF CORPORATION SUCROSE STEARATE 1.5 1.5 1.5 TEGOSOFT PSE 141 G ® from the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT STEARIC ACID 1.5 1.5 1.5 WATER qs qs qs GLYCERINE 5 5 5 PRESERVING AGENT qs qs qs SODIUM 1.2 1.2 1.2 ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 SIMULGEL EG ® from the company SEPPIC Synthetic phyllosilicate — 2 5 (POWDER)
[0631] Results
TABLE-US-00005 COMPO- COMPO- COMPO- SITION B SITION C SITION A according to according to PLACEBO the invention the invention Tacky + ++ (result > ++ (result > effect than that than that of A) of B) Penetration ++ +++ (result > +++ (result > sensation than that than that of A) of B)
[0632] Thus, the introduction of a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for use in the invention, in this case in powder form, to compositions B and C according to the invention makes it possible to decrease the sensation of tackiness of the emulsion and to increase the sensation of penetration of the composition during application.
[0633] The higher the amount of synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for use in the invention in the compositions, the more marked are these effects.
[0634] 2.3 Creams of the Type (O/W Emulsion) Based on a Synthetic Phyllosilicate in Powder Form
[0635] Procedure:
[0636] Once the preserving system and the glycerine have been dissolved in water (at the necessary temperature), add the hydrophilic gelling agent with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) at approximately 70° C. until homogenization of the gel. Homogenize the fatty phase (at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase). When the mixtures of the two phases are homogeneous, form the emulsion conventionally by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase with rotor/stator (Moritz) or mixer stirring. Cool with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) and add the filler and the rhamnose until a homogeneous smooth cream is obtained.
TABLE-US-00006 COMPO- COMPO- COMPO- SITION B SITION C SITION a) according to according to INCI Name/Ingredients PLACEBO the invention the invention GYCERYL STEARATE 1.5 1.5 1.5 (and) PEG-100 STEARATE ARLACEL 165-FL-(CQ) ® from the company CRODA HYDROGENATED 12.0 12.0 12.0 POLYISOBUTENE PARLEAM ® from the company NOF CORPORATION GLYCERINE 2.0 2.0 2.0 PRESERVING AGENT qs qs qs WATER qs qs qs RHAMNOSE 1.5% 1.5% 1.5% L RHAMNOSE MC ® from the company DANISCO SODIUM 1.0 1.0 1.0 ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE — — — (and) POLYSORBATE 80 SIMULGEL EG ® from the company SEPPIC Synthetic phyllosilicate — 2.0 5.0 (POWDER)
[0637] Results
TABLE-US-00007 COMPO- COMPO- COMPO- SITION B SITION C SITION A according to according to PLACEBO the invention the invention Tacky + ++ (result > ++ (result > effect than that than that of A) of B) Penetration ++ ++ (result > +++ (result > sensation than that than that of A) of B)
[0638] Thus, the introduction of a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for use in the invention, in this case in powder form, to compositions B and C according to the invention makes it possible to decrease the sensation of tackiness of the emulsion and to increase the sensation of penetration of the composition during application.
[0639] The higher the amount of synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for use in the invention in the compositions, the more marked are these effects.
[0640] 2.4 Creams of the Type (Emulsion Type: O/W) Based on a Synthetic Phyllosilicate in Powder Form
[0641] Procedure:
[0642] Once the preserving system and the glycerine have been dissolved in water (at the necessary temperature), add the hydrophilic gelling agent with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) at approximately 70° C. until homogenization of the gel. Homogenize the fatty phase (at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase). When the mixtures of the two phases are homogeneous, form the emulsion conventionally by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase with rotor/stator (Moritz) or mixer stirring. Cool with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) and add the filler and the mannose until a homogeneous smooth cream is obtained.
TABLE-US-00008 COMPO- COMPO- COMPO- SITION B SITION C SITION A According to According to INCI Name/Ingredients PLACEBO the invention the invention GLYCERYL STEARATE SE 2.5 2.5 2.5 TEGIN PELLETS ® from the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT HYDROGENATED 12.0 12.0 12.0 POLYISOBUTENE PARLEAM ® from the company NOF CORPORATION GLYCERINE 2.0 2.0 2.0 PRESERVING AGENT qs qs qs WATER qs qs qs MANNOSE 1.5% 1.5% 1.5% D-MANNOSE CT ® from the company DANISCO SODIUM ACRYLATE/ 2.0 2.0 2.0 SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 SIMULGEL EG ® from the company SEPPIC Synthetic phyllosilicate — 2.0 5.0 (POWDER)
[0643] Results
TABLE-US-00009 COMPO- COMPO- COMPO- SITION B SITION C SITION A according to according to PLACEBO the invention the invention Tacky + ++ (result > ++ (result > effect than that than that of A) of B) Penetration ++ ++ (result > +++ (result > sensation than that than that of A) of B)
[0644] Thus, the introduction of a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for use in the invention, in this case in powder form, into compositions B and C according to the invention makes it possible to decrease the sensation of tackiness of the emulsion and to increase the sensation of penetration of the composition during application.
[0645] The higher the amount of synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for use in the invention in the compositions, the more marked are these effects.
[0646] 2.5 Creams of O/W Direct Emulsion Type Based on a Synthetic Phyllosilicate in Powder Form
[0647] Procedure:
[0648] Once the preserving system and the glycerine have been dissolved in water (at the necessary temperature), add the hydrophilic gelling agent with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) at approximately 70° C. until homogenization of the gel. Homogenize the fatty phase (at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase). When the mixtures of the two phases are homogeneous, form the emulsion conventionally by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase with rotor/stator (Moritz) or mixer stirring. Cool with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) and add the filler until a homogeneous smooth cream is obtained.
TABLE-US-00010 COMPO- COMPO- SITION B SITION A according to Phase INCI Name/Ingredients PLACEBO the invention Aqueous WATER qs qs phase GLYCERINE 40.0 40.0 PRESERVING AGENT qs qs TETRASODIUM EDTA 0.1 0.1 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0.8 0.8 COSMEDIA SP ® from the company COGNIS (BASF) Fatty COCOA BEAN BUTTER 15.0 15.0 phase THEOBROMA CT COCOA BUTTER DEODORIZED ® from the company DUTCH COCOA BV GLYCERYL STEARATE 2.5 2.5 CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 STEARATE (and) HYDROGENATED LECITHIN HELIOFEEL ® from the company LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS (UNIPEX) filler Synthetic phyllosilicate — 3.0 (POWDER)
[0649] Results
TABLE-US-00011 COMPO- COMPO- SITION B SITION A according to PLACEBO the invention Tacky + ++ effect
[0650] Thus, the introduction of a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for use in the invention, in this case in powder form, into composition B according to the invention makes it possible to decrease the sensation of tackiness of the emulsion and to increase the sensation of penetration of the composition during application.
[0651] 2.6 Creams of O/W Direct Emulsion Type Based on a Synthetic Phyllosilicate in Powder Form
[0652] Procedure:
[0653] Once the preserving system has been dissolved in water (at the required temperature), add the hydrophilic gelling agent with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) at about 70° C. until the gel has homogenized, and add the active agent C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy propane, the INCI name of which is Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol. Homogenize the fatty phase (at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase). When the mixtures of the two phases are homogeneous, form the emulsion by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase with rotor/stator (Moritz) or mixer stirring. Cool with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) and add the filler until a homogeneous smooth cream is obtained.
TABLE-US-00012 Composition B Composition C Composition A according to according to INCI Name/Ingredients PLACEBO the invention the invention Fatty GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) 2 2 2 phase PEG-100 STEARATE ARLACEL 165-FL-(CQ) ® from the company CRODA HYDROGENATED 10 10 10 POLYISOBUTENE PARLEAM ® from the company NOF CORPORATION Aqueous PRESERVING AGENT qs qs qs phase WATER qs qs qs WATER/AQUA 40% 10 10 10 HYDROXYPROPYL 35% TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL/ HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL PROPYLENE GLYCOL 25% CETYL 1 1 1 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE POLYSURF 67 CS ® from the company ASHLAND Filler Synthetic phyllosilicate (POWDER) — 2 5
[0654] The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol composed of 40% of water, of 35% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol/hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and of 25% of propylene glycol present in compositions A, B and C is sold under the name Mexoryl® by the company SBB Chimex.
[0655] Results
TABLE-US-00013 COMPO- COMPO- COMPO- SITION B SITION C SITION A according to according to PLACEBO the invention the invention Tacky + ++ (result > ++ (result > effect than that than that of A) of B) Penetration ++ +++ (result > +++ (result > sensation than that than that of A) of B)
[0656] Thus, the introduction of a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for use in the invention, in this case in powder form, into compositions B and C according to the invention makes it possible to decrease the sensation of tackiness of the emulsion and to increase the sensation of penetration of the composition during application.
[0657] The higher the amount of synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for use in the invention in the compositions, the more marked are these effects.
[0658] 2.7 Cream of O/W Type Based on a Synthetic Phyllosilicate in Gel Form
[0659] Procedure:
[0660] Once the preserving system has been dissolved in water (at the required temperature), add the hydrophilic gelling agent with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) at about 70° C. until the gel has homogenized, and add the active agent C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy propane, the INCI name of which is Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol. Homogenize the fatty phase (at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase). When the mixtures of the two phases are homogeneous, form the emulsion by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase with rotor/stator (Moritz) or mixer stirring. Cool with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) until a homogeneous smooth cream is obtained.
TABLE-US-00014 COMPO- SITION A according to INCI Name/Ingredients the invention Fatty GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) 2 phase PEG-100 STEARATE ARLACEL 165-FL-(CQ) ® from the company CRODA HYDROGENATED 12 POLYISOBUTENE PARLEAM ® from the company NOF CORPORATION Aqueous PRESERVING AGENT qs phase WATER qs WATER/AQUA 40% 10 HYDROXYPROPYL 35% TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL/ HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL PROPYLENE GLYCOL 25% Synthetic phyllosilicate (GEL) (10.3% am) 30
[0661] The hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol composed of 40% of water, of 35% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol/hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and of 25% of propylene glycol present in composition A is sold under the name Mexoryl® by the company SBB Chimex.
[0662] Thus, the introduction of a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for use in the invention, in this case in gel form, into composition A according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a formula that exhibits very little tackiness and has a good penetration sensation.
[0663] 2.8 Cream of O/W Emulsion Type Based on a Synthetic Phyllosilicate in Powder Form
TABLE-US-00015 Composition A1 Composition B1 Composition C1 (placebo) (invention) (invention) INGREDIENTS Weight % Weight % Weight % Fatty DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 2.5 2.5 2.5 phase (DUB DIS ® - STEARINERIE DUBOIS) SYNTHETIC WAX 3 3 3 (CIREBELLE 303 ®- CIREBELLE) ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) 2 2 2 BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE (MONTANOV 202 ® - SEPPIC) OCTOCRYLENE 7 7 7 (UVINUL N539 ® - BASF) BUTYL 3 3 3 METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE (PARSOL 1789 ® - DSM) ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 5 5 (NEO HELIOPAN OS ®- SYMRISE) Aqueous WATER qs qs qs phase GLYCERINE 5 5 5 PRESERVING AGENT qs qs qs DISODIUM EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 SODIUM ACRYLATE/SODIUM 1.5 1.5 1.5 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 (SIMULGEL EG ® - SEPPIC) DENATURED ALCOHOL 4 4 4 SYNTHETIC PHYLLOSILICATE — 2 5 (POWDER)
[0664] Procedure: [0665] Once the preserving system and the glycerine have been dissolved in water (at the necessary temperature), add the hydrophilic gelling agent with stirring using a Rayneri blender at approximately 70° C. until homogenization of the gel. [0666] Homogenize the fatty phase (at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase). [0667] When the mixtures of the two phases are homogeneous, form the emulsion conventionally by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase with stirring using a Moritz stirrer. [0668] Cool with stirring using a Rayneri blender until a homogeneous smooth cream is obtained. [0669] Add the filler(s) and the alcohol.
[0670] Compositions B and C according to the invention are stable.
[0671] Results—Evaluation of the Cosmetic Properties
[0672] For each of compositions A1, B1 and C1, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol.
[0673] The cosmetic properties on application are evaluated, monadically, by a panel of 15 experts trained in the description of care products.
[0674] The sensory evaluation of the care products by this panel is performed as follows: the products are packaged in opaque jars or pump-dispenser bottles depending on the viscosity of the products. Within the same session, the samples are presented in random order to each panellist.
[0675] The 15 experts evaluated the following parameters: [0676] the final tackiness of the skin, after penetration; [0677] the final greasy effect on the skin, after penetration; [0678] the softness on application and finally. The “softness” descriptor is defined as the capacity of the product not to attach to the skin during application. The coarse effect or the dragging effect oppose this descriptor.
[0679] The descriptors are evaluated on a three-level scale: +, ++ and +++, the symbols + to +++ corresponding to an increase in the cosmetic property tested.
[0680] The results are collated in the table which follows.
TABLE-US-00016 Compo- Compo- Compo- Parameters sition A1 sition B1 sition C1 evaluated (placebo) (invention) (invention) Tacky effect +++ ++ + Greasy effect +++ ++ + Softness + +++ +++
[0681] The descriptors are evaluated on a three-level scale: +, ++ and +++, the symbols + to +++ corresponding to an increase in the cosmetic property tested.
[0682] Thus, the introduction of the synthetic phyllosilicate, in this case in powder form, into compositions B1 and C1 according to the invention containing liposoluble organic UV-screening agents makes it possible to reduce the tacky sensation and the greasy effect of the emulsions and also to improve the softness, that is to say to reduce the coarse/dragging effect.
[0683] Results—Evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) In Vitro
[0684] In addition, an evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) in vitro was carried out using a Labsphere® spectrophotometer.
[0685] The plate is the material to which the anti-sun composition is applied. For this protocol, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plates proved to be ideal.
[0686] The results obtained are collated in the following table:
TABLE-US-00017 Compo- Compo- Compo- sition A1 sition B1 sition C1 (placebo) (invention) (invention) SPF in-Vitro 57.17 97.28 121.24 Coefficient of variation 19.00% 17.10% 28.90%
[0687] Compositions B1 and C1 according to the invention comprising respectively 2% and 5% of synthetic phyllosilicate in powder form have a higher SPF factor than composition A1 not comprising synthetic phyllosilicate.
[0688] Thus, the presence of synthetic phyllosilicate introduced in powder form into the compositions containing lipophilic UV-screening agents makes it possible to increase the SPF performance level of the compositions according to the invention.
[0689] 2.9 Cream of O/W Emulsion Type Based on a Synthetic Phyllosilicate in Powder Form
TABLE-US-00018 Composition A2 Composition B2 Composition C2 (placebo) (invention) (invention) INGREDIENTS Weight % Weight % Weight % Fatty ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 2 2 2 phase (DUB ININ ® - STEARINERIE DUBOIS) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) 2 2 2 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) DISODIUM ETHYLENE DICOCAMIDE PEG-15 DISULFATE (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE (CERALUTHION H ® - SASOL) OCTOCRYLENE 7 7 7 (UVINUL N539 ® - BASF) BUTYL 3 3 3 METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE (PARSOL 1789 ®- DSM) ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 5 5 (NEO HELIOPAN OS ® - SYMRISE) Aqueous WATER qs qs qs phase GLYCERINE 4 4 4 PRESERVING AGENT qs qs qs DISODIUM EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 1.5 1.5 1.5 (COSMEDIA SP ® - COGNIS) SYNTHETIC PHYLLOSILICATE — 2 5 (POWDER)
[0690] Procedure: [0691] Once the preserving system and the glycerine have been dissolved in water (at the necessary temperature), add the hydrophilic gelling agent with stirring using a Rayneri blender at approximately 70° C. until homogenization of the gel. [0692] Homogenize the fatty phase (at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase). [0693] When the mixtures of the two phases are homogeneous, form the emulsion conventionally by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase with stirring using a Moritz stirrer. [0694] Cool with stirring using a Rayneri blender until a homogeneous smooth cream is obtained. [0695] Add the filler(s).
[0696] Compositions B2 and C2 according to the invention are stable.
[0697] Results—Evaluation of the cosmetic properties
[0698] For each of compositions A2, B2 and C2, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the same protocol set out in example 2.1 above.
[0699] The results are collated in the table which follows.
TABLE-US-00019 Compo- Compo- Compo- Parameters sition A2 sition B2 sition C2 evaluated (placebo) (invention) (invention) Tacky effect +++ ++ + Greasy effect +++ ++ + Softness + +++ +++
[0700] The descriptors are evaluated on a three-level scale: +, ++ and +++, the symbols + to +++ corresponding to an increase in the cosmetic property tested.
[0701] Thus, the introduction of the synthetic phyllosilicate, in this case in powder form, into compositions B2 and C2 according to the invention containing lipophilic UV-screening agents makes it possible to reduce the tacky sensation and the greasy effect of the emulsions and also to improve the softness, that is to say to reduce the coarse/dragging effect.
[0702] The higher the amount of synthetic phyllosilicate introduced in powder form into the compositions according to the invention, the more marked are these effects.
[0703] Results—Evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) In Vitro
[0704] In addition, an evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) in vitro was carried out using a Labsphere® spectrophotometer on poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plates as described in detail in example 2.1 above.
[0705] The results obtained are collated in the following table:
TABLE-US-00020 Compo- Compo- Compo- sition A2 sition B2 sition C2 (placebo) (invention) (invention) SPF in-Vitro 78.33 108.8 105.33 Coefficient of variation 8.5% 12.2% 10.2%
[0706] Compositions B2 and C2 according to the invention comprising respectively 2% and 5% of synthetic phyllosilicate in powder form have a higher SPF factor than composition A2 not comprising synthetic phyllosilicate.
[0707] 2.10 Cream of O/W Emulsion Type Based on a Synthetic Phyllosilicate in Gel Form or in Gel and Powder Form
TABLE-US-00021 Composition A3 Composition B3 Composition C3 (invention) (invention) (placebo) INGREDIENTS Weight % Weight % Weight % Fatty GLYCERYL STEARATE 1.5 1.5 1.5 phase (TEGIN PELLETS ® - EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) ISOSTEARYL NEOPENTANOATE 8 8 8 (DUB VCI 18 ®- STEARINERIE DUBOIS) ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) 1.5 1.5 1.5 BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE (MONTANOV 202 - SEPPIC) (CERALUTHION H ® - SASOL) Aqueous WATER qs qs qs phase GLYCERINE 3 3 3 PRESERVING AGENT qs qs qs TRIETHANOLAMINE 1.04 1.04 1.04 TROMETHAMINE 2.52 2.52 2.52 (TRIS AMINO USP/EP GRADE ® - ANGUS) BIS-PEG-18 METHYL ETHER 5 5 5 DIMETHYL SILANE (DOW CORNING 2501 COSMETIC WAX ® - DOW CORNING) PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLESULFONIC 6 6 6 ACID (EUSOLEX 232 ® - MERCK) TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR 6 6 6 SULFONIC ACID (MEXORYL SX ® - CHIMEX) ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL — — 1 ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (CARBOPOL ULTREZ 20 POLYMER ®-LUBRIZOL) SYNTHETIC PHYLLOSILICATE — 5 — (POWDER) SYNTHETIC PHYLLOSILICATE (GEL) 31 (3.19% am) 31 (3.19% am) — (10.3% am) (am = active material)
[0708] Procedure:
[0709] It is identical to that described in detail in example 2.2.
[0710] Compositions A3, B3 and C3 according to the invention are stable.
[0711] Results—Evaluation of the Cosmetic Properties
[0712] For each of compositions A3, B3 and C3, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the same protocol set out in example 2.1 above.
[0713] The following additional parameter was also estimated among the 15 experts: freshness on application and after penetration.
[0714] The results are collated in the table which follows.
TABLE-US-00022 Compo- Compo- Compo- Parameters sition A3 sition B3 sition C3 evaluated (invention) (invention) (placebo) Tacky effect ++ + +++ Greasy effect ++ + +++ Softness +++ +++ + Freshness +++ +
[0715] The descriptors are evaluated on a three-level scale: +, ++ and +++, the symbols + to +++ corresponding to an increase in the cosmetic property tested.
[0716] Thus, by comparing the results obtained for composition A3 according to the invention and for composition C3 (placebo, without synthetic phyllosilicate), it is demonstrated that the introduction of the synthetic phyllosilicate, in gel form and as a gelling agent, into a composition according to the invention containing water-soluble organic UV-screening agents makes it possible to reduce the tacky sensation and the greasy effect of the emulsions, to improve the softness, that is to say to reduce the coarse/dragging effect, and also to provide a lightness effect which goes as far as a fresh effect.
[0717] Composition B3 according to the invention comprising synthetic phyllosilicate incorporated both in powder form and in gel form provides great effects in terms of non-greasy effect and non-tacky effect.
Example 3 Effect of the Synthetic Phyllosilicate Suitable for Use in the Invention on the Reduction of Tackiness
[0718] Procedure:
[0719] Once the preserving system and the glycerine have been dissolved in water (at the necessary temperature), add the hydrophilic gelling agent with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) at approximately 70° C. until homogenization of the gel. Homogenize the fatty phase (at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase). When the mixtures of the two phases are homogeneous, form the emulsion conventionally by adding the fatty phase to the aqueous phase with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) (or mixer). Cool with stirring (Rayneri deflocculator) until a homogeneous smooth cream is obtained.
TABLE-US-00023 Compo- Compo- Compo- Compo- sition A sition B sition C sition D according to outside the outside the outside the INCI Name/Ingredients the invention invention invention invention Fatty GLYCERYL 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 phase STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE ARLACEL 165-FL- (CQ)- ® from the company CRODA ISOSTEARYL 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 NEOPENTANOATE DUB VCI 18 ® from the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS Aqueous Phyllosilicate gel 40.0 — 40.0 — phase at 10.3% in water Preserving agent qs qs qs qs AMMONIUM — 1.5 — 1.5 POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE HOSTACERIN AMPS ® from the company CLARIANT DIPROPYLENE 10.0 10.0 — — GLYCOL PROPYLENE 10.0 10.0 — — GLYCOL GLYCERINE 10.0 10.0 — — WATER qs qs qs qs
[0720] Results
TABLE-US-00024 Compo- Compo- Compo- Compo- sition A sition B sition C sition D according to outside the outside the outside the the invention invention invention invention Tacky +++ + +++ (result > +++ (result > effect than that than that of D) of A) Penetration +++ (result > ++ +++ +++ sensation than that of D)
[0721] It proves to be the case that composition D outside the invention, without glycol, is not very tacky. On the other hand, when the composition comprises 30% of glycol (composition B outside the invention), it becomes very highly tacky. Thus, glycols induce a very strong tackiness sensation.
[0722] In addition, when comparing composition A according to the invention with composition B outside the invention, it appears that a synthetic phyllosilicate in gel form suitable for use in the invention makes it possible to reduce the tacky effect introduced by glycols compared with ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate (AMPS).
[0723] Finally, the comparison between composition A according to the invention and composition C outside the invention makes it possible to demonstrate that the cosmetic properties of these two compositions are very similar, with or without a high amount of glycols (30% by weight).
[0724] These data demonstrate the capacity of a synthetic phyllosilicate suitable for use in the invention to reduce the tacky effect of a composition comprising a polyol.