Hair treatment method

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair treatment method comprising at least the steps consisting of: a) applying a mechanical tension to said hair, b) exposing said hair under mechanical tension to microwaves, in the presence of a solvent in vapor form in contact with said hair, without complete drying of the hair during microwave exposure, the solvent in vapor form being entirely generated by the evaporation of a compound which is present, before emission of the microwaves, in contact with the treated hair.

Claims

1. A cosmetic hair treatment method comprising: a) applying a mechanical tension to the hair to be treated, b) exposing the hair under the mechanical tension to microwaves, while contacting the hair with a solvent vapour, without complete drying of the hair during the microwave exposure, to obtain the treated hair; wherein the solvent vapour is generated by evaporation of a solvent which is in contact with the hair to be treated before the exposure to the microwaves, the solvent vapour having, in the vicinity of and/or in contact with the hair, in step b), a temperature of between 100 and 150° C.; and after step b) the hair retains at least 5% of the weight of liquid compounds present before step b), in contact therewith, the liquid compound adding to natural moisture of the hair before treatment, and wherein a frequency of the microwaves is between 500 MHz and 10 GHz, the method further comprising c) applying to the treated hair at least one composition for durable shaping of the hair, the composition being a reducing composition comprising one or more reducing agents, the pH of the reducing composition being between 7 and 11, the reducing composition comprising at least one alkalifying agent, the alkalifying agent being selected from: aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines and derivatives thereof, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated ethylenediamines, alkali metal silicates, amino acids, compounds of formula (II): ##STR00003## wherein W is a propylene residue which is optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group, or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd are identical or different and may be a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein a) and b) are successive or simultaneous.

3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one composition for durable shaping of the hair comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of a reducing agent, an alkali metal hydroxide and an alkaline earth metal hydroxide.

4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the shaping composition is applied to the hair before a), after b) or both before a) and after b).

5. The method according to claim 1, further comprising applying to the treated hair at least one fixing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

6. The method according to claim 5, wherein the fixing composition is applied to the hair before a), after b) and after c) or after b) and after c).

7. The method according to claim 1 wherein the mechanical tension in a) comprises application to the hair to be treated of at least one selected from the group consisting of a torsional stress, a tensile stress and a compressive stress.

8. The method according to claim 1, wherein a duration of b) is between 1 s and 30 min.

9. The method according to claim 1, wherein the microwaves having a power of the microwaves is less than 500 W.

10. The method according to claim 1, wherein the solvent comprises a polar protic liquid having a dielectric constant at 20° C. greater than or equal to 8.

11. The method according to claim 1, wherein the solvent vapour comprises at least one of water and propanol.

12. The method according to claim 1 wherein b) takes place in an enclosure which is impervious to microwaves.

13. The method according to claim 1, further comprising recovering the solvent vapour during b), after b) or both during and after b).

14. The method according to claim 1, wherein during part or a total of b), the hair is in a volume defined by at least a wall of a material which allows passage of microwaves and limits evaporation of the solvent in contact with the treated hair before emission of the microwaves.

15. The method according to claim 14, wherein the material comprises cellophane.

16. The method according to claim 1, wherein the solvent vapour is entirely generated by said evaporation of said solvent which is in contact with the hair to be treated before the exposure to the microwaves.

17. The method according to claim 1, wherein the solvent vapour comprises propanol.

18. The method according to claim 1, wherein step b) is repeated between 2 and 10 times.

19. The method according to claim 1, wherein the alkalifying agent is an alkanolamine selected from the group consisting of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine and derivatives thereof.

20. The method according to claim 1, wherein the alkalifying agent is an alkali metal silicate, which is a sodium metasilicate.

21. The method according to claim 1, wherein the alkalifying agent is an amino acid selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline and histidine.

Description

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

(1) The invention may be better comprehended from a reading of the detailed description below, of non-limitative examples for its implementation, and from examination of the attached drawing, in which:

(2) FIGS. 1 to 5 represent, schematically and partially, exemplary embodiments of treatment devices according to the invention,

(3) FIG. 10 represents, schematically and partially, an exemplary embodiment according to the invention, and

(4) FIGS. 6 to 9 represent locks of hair which have undergone various cosmetic treatments.

(5) FIG. 1 shows a treatment device 100 comprising a handpiece 3 comprising an enclosure in which the hair to be treated is received, connected by a flex 2 to a base unit 1 comprising a microwave generator.

(6) The flex 2 may comprise a waveguide.

(7) FIG. 2 shows a detail of FIG. 1.

(8) The microwaves 70 forwarded within the handpiece 3 by the waveguide 2 permit heating of the liquid solvent present on the hair to be treated and allows it to be transformed into the state of solvent in vapour form. In this exemplary embodiment, a device for applying mechanical tension and a lock of hair (not shown) are present within the handpiece 3, and the hair is exposed both to the microwaves and to the solvent in vapour form 80. A temperature detector 150 may be present in order to measure the temperature of the treated lock of hair, and a control system, for example a microprocessor control system, may allow the emission of the microwaves to be interrupted or modified in the event that a temperature is detected which is above a predetermined threshold.

(9) FIG. 3 shows an exemplary embodiment in which the treatment enclosure is formed by closing a tongs forming all or part of the handpiece 3. The tongs, when open, allow one or more locks of hair for treatment to be introduced between the branches. Each branch defines, for example, half of the enclosure.

(10) The microwaves may be emitted by a single branch or by both branches of the tongs.

(11) A sensor (not shown) may inform the treatment device that the tongs are closed, and the transmission of the microwaves may be conditioned to the detection of this closing.

(12) The mechanical tension applied to the hair may be a tensile force, in order to smooth out the hair.

(13) In all of the examples above, the means of forwarding the microwaves may comprise an emitting antenna 10 and a receiving antenna 15, as illustrated in FIG. 4.

(14) FIG. 5 also shows a lock of hair M which is present in a treatment enclosure of the handpiece 3. The enclosure is impervious to microwaves and for this purpose, for example, comprises joints of electrically conductive foam 200 which reflects the microwave radiation at the point at which the hair leaves the enclosure.

(15) In one variant, not shown, the microwave generator 1 may be present, for example, within the chamber and/or within the device for applying mechanical tension.

(16) FIG. 10 shows an embodiment according to the invention wherein a lock of hair M is present in a volume defined by a wall 300 of a material, said material allowing microwaves 70 to pass through it and containing the vapour 80 generated.

(17) The containing of the vapour 80 advantageously allow the hair M to be moistened during the treatment.

(18) Said material may comprise, in particular consist of, cellophane and/or have a low porosity. In a variant, the material may be porous and in particular be a mesh.

(19) Shaping Composition

(20) Reducing Composition

(21) Reducing Agents

(22) The shaping composition may be a reducing composition comprising one or more reducing agents.

(23) The reducing agent may for example be selected from: thioglycolic acid of formula (1):
HS—CH.sub.2—COOH  (1), thiolactic acid of formula (2):

(24) ##STR00001## 3-mercaptopropionic acid of formula (3):
HS—CH.sub.2—CH.sub.2—COOH  (3), cysteamine of formula (4):
HS—CH.sub.2—CH.sub.2—NH.sub.2  (4), cysteine of formula (5):
HS—CH.sub.2—CH(NH.sub.2)—CO.sub.2H
and also their salts and their esters, phosphines, sulphites and borohydrides.

(25) The cosmetically acceptable salts of the products (1) to (4) above include, for example, the ammonium salts, primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts and alkaline earth metal salts. Primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts include, respectively, monoethanolamine, diisopropanolamine and triethanolamine.

(26) The esters of the compounds (1) to (4) above include glycerol monothioglycolate, ethylene glycol monothioglycolate, the azeotropic mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate and 2-hydroxy-1-methylethyl thioglycolate described in patent application FR-A-2 679 448, glycerol monothiolactate, ethylene glycol monothiolactate, glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate.

(27) The reducing agent or agents may be present in an amount of, for example, between 0.01% and 20%, preferably between 0.1% and 10%, more preferably between 0.3% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducing composition.

(28) Additives Present within the Reducing Composition

(29) The reducing composition may further comprise one or more additives.

(30) The additives may be used, within the reducing composition, alone or in mixtures.

(31) The reducing composition may comprise at least one surfactant, for example a nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactant, among which mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkylbenzene sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylsulphonates, quaternary ammonium salts, alkylbetaines, ethoxylated alkylphenols, fatty acid alkanolamides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters, and other nonionic surfactants of hydroxypropyl ether and alkylpolyglycoside type.

(32) The surfactant or surfactants may for example be present in an amount of less than 30% by weight, and preferably of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the reducing composition.

(33) With the aim of enhancing the cosmetic properties of the hair or else of reducing or preventing damage to the hair, the reducing composition may further comprise at least one cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric treating agent.

(34) The particularly preferred treating agents include especially those described in French patent applications FR 2 598 613 and FR 2 470 596. As treating agents it is also possible to use volatile or non-volatile, linear or cyclic silicones and mixtures thereof, polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternized polyorganosiloxanes such as those described in French patent application FR 2 535 730, polyorganosiloxanes containing aminoalkyl groups modified with alkoxycarbonylalkyl groups, such as those described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 4,749,732, polyorganosiloxanes such as the polydimethylsiloxane-polyoxyalkyl copolymer of Dimethicone Copolyol type, a polydimethylsiloxane containing stearoxy (stearoxydimethicone) end groups, a polydimethylsiloxane-dialkylammonium acetate copolymer or a polydimethylsiloxane-polyalkylbetaine copolymer, these copolymers being described in British patent application GB 2 197 352, polysiloxanes organically modified with mercapto or mercaptoalkyl groups, such as those described in French patent FR 1 530 369 and in European patent application EP 295 780, and also silanes such as stearoxytrimethylsilane.

(35) The reducing composition may further comprise other treating agents, for example cationic polymers such as those used in the compositions of French patents FR 2 472 382 and FR 2 495 931, or else cationic polymers of the ionene type such as those used in the compositions of Luxembourg patent 83703. The composition may also comprise basic amino acids, for example lysine or arginine, or acids, for example glutamic acid or aspartic acid, peptides and their derivatives, protein hydrolysates, waxes, swelling agents and penetrants, or agents reinforcing the efficacy of the reducing agent, such as an SiO.sub.2/PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) mixture, dimethylisosorbitol, urea and its derivatives, pyrrolidone, N-alkylpyrrolidones, solvents such as alkylene glycol or dialkylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, C.sub.3-C.sub.6 alkanediols such as, for example, 1,2-propanediol and 1,2-butanediol, 2-imidazolidinone, and other compounds such as fatty alcohols, lanolin derivatives, active ingredients such as pantothenic acid, agents for counteracting hair loss, anti-dandruff agents, thickeners, suspension agents, sequestrants, opacifiers, dyes, sunscreen agents, and also fragrances and preservatives.

(36) The pH of the reducing compositions is preferably between 6 and 11, more preferably between 7 and 10.

(37) The reducing composition may comprise at least one alkalifying agent for adjusting the pH.

(38) The alkalifying agent, preferably, used in the compositions according to the invention is an agent which may allow the pH of the composition or compositions in which it is present to be increased.

(39) The alkalifying agent may be a Bronsted, Lowry or Lewis base.

(40) The alkalifying agent may be organic or inorganic.

(41) The alkalifying agent may for example be selected from:

(42) a) aqueous ammonia,

(43) b) alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and also their derivatives,

(44) c) ethoxylated and/or propoxylated ethylenediamines,

(45) d) alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates,

(46) e) amino acids, preferably basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline and histidine,

(47) f) (bi)carbonates, particularly primary, secondary or tertiary amine (ammonium), alkali metal or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, and

(48) g) compounds of formula (II) below:

(49) ##STR00002##
in which W is a propylene residue which is optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group, or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl radical. The groups R.sub.a, R.sub.b, R.sub.c and R.sub.d are identical or different and may be a hydrogen atom or a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl or C.sub.1-C.sub.4 hydroxyalkyl radical.

(50) Preferred alkalifying agents may be aqueous ammonia and monoethanolamine.

(51) The alkalifying agent or agents, for example as defined above, may be present in an amount of between preferably 0.001% and 10%, for example between 0.005% and 8%, by weight, relative to the weight of the reducing composition. This concentration may in particular be a function of the desired pH of the reducing composition.

(52) Conditions of Application of the Reducing Composition

(53) In one preferred exemplary embodiment, when it is applied before step a) and/or after step b), the reducing composition may be left to act, for example, for a duration of between 1 and 50 minutes, preferably between 1 and 30 minutes.

(54) When the reducing composition is applied before step a) and/or after step b), the shaping step may take place at a temperature of between 20 and 40° C., preferably between 25 and 35° C.

(55) Moreover, the reducing composition may, preferably, be applied to wet and clean hair fibres.

(56) Composition Comprising a Hydroxide Compound

(57) The shaping composition may comprise one or more hydroxide compounds.

(58) Hydroxide Compound

(59) By “hydroxide compound” is meant a compound which is capable of releasing hydroxide ions. In the shaping composition used in the context of the invention, it is possible to use all of the hydroxide compounds that are commonly used in lanthionization processes.

(60) The at least one hydroxide compound may preferably be selected from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, hydroxides of lanthanide metals, hydroxides of actinide metals, hydroxides of metals from group III, hydroxides of metals from group IV, hydroxides of metals from group V, hydroxides of metals from group VI, organic hydroxides, and compounds comprising at least one partially hydrolysable hydroxide substituent.

(61) Hydroxide compounds which can be used in the context of the present invention may include, for example, sodium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, aluminium hydroxide, copper hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, molybdenum hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, zinc hydroxide and cobalt hydroxide.

(62) The preferred hydroxide compounds are sodium hydroxide and guanidinium hydroxide. Their concentration is preferably such that the pH of the composition is between 12 and 14.

(63) The hydroxide compound or compounds may be present in the shaping composition at a concentration of between 0.2 and 1 M, preferably between 0.4 and 0.6 M.

(64) Emulsifiers

(65) The shaping composition comprising a hydroxide compound may be at least partly in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.

(66) In the latter case, it may comprise at least one nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifier.

(67) The emulsifiers are surfactants and are selected according to the emulsion to be obtained, for example water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.

(68) When the aim is to obtain a shaping composition which comprises an emulsion, for example, as described above, use may be made of: amphoteric emulsifiers, for example N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, anionic emulsifiers, for example acylglutamates such as disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate (Amisoft HS-21® sold by Ajinomoto), carboxylic acids and their salts such as sodium stearate, phosphoric esters and their salts such as DEA oleth-10 phosphate, sulphosuccinates such as disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulphosuccinate and disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulphosuccinate, cationic emulsifiers, for example alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearyl-ethylimidonium ethosulphate, and ammonium salts such as N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride (behentrimonium chloride), and nonionic emulsifiers, for example the esters and ethers of saccharides such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, and the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate sold by ICI under the name Arlatone 2121®, polyol esters, for example glycerol esters or sorbitol esters, such as glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan stearate, glycerol ethers, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated ethers, such as the ethoxylated and propoxylated ether of lauryl alcohol containing 25 ethoxy groups and 25 propoxy groups (CTFA name “PPG-25 laureth-25”), and the ethoxylated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 ethoxy groups (CTFA name “C12-C15 Pareth-7”), polymers of ethylene glycol, such as PEG-100, and mixtures thereof.

(69) It is possible to use one or more of these emulsifiers.

(70) For the water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, examples of emulsifiers include polyol fatty esters, in particular fatty esters of glycerol or of sorbitol, and especially isostearyl, oleyl and ricinoleyl esters of a polyol, such as the mixture of petrolatum, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, glyceryl isostearate, hydrogenated castor oil and ozokerite that is sold under the name Protegin W® by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate; esters and ethers of saccharides such as methylglucose dioleate; fatty esters such as magnesium lanolate; dimethicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as the laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning, the cetyldimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90® by Goldschmidt, and dimethicone copolyol; and mixtures thereof.

(71) The oils of the emulsions may be vegetable oils, mineral oils, silicone oils, liquid esters or linear or branched C.sub.7-C.sub.16 hydrocarbons.

(72) Conditions of Application of the Composition Comprising a Hydroxide Compound

(73) In one preferred exemplary embodiment, when it is applied before step a) and/or after step b), the composition comprising a hydroxide compound is left to act for example for a duration of between 5 and 60 minutes, preferably between 10 and 20 minutes.

(74) When the composition comprising a hydroxide compound is applied before step a) and/or after step b), the fixing step may take place at a temperature of between 20 and 40° C., preferably between 25 and 35° C.

(75) After the step of applying the composition comprising a hydroxide compound, and after any contact time, the hair may be rinsed, preferably with running water and with osomosed water, or even with an acidic composition in order to remove the residues of alkalinity.

(76) Acidic Composition

(77) By “acidic composition” is meant a composition comprising one or more acids selected, for example, from acids containing one or more carboxylic, sulphonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions.

(78) The acids may contain other chemical functions, more particularly hydroxyl or amino functions.

(79) The acids may be saturated or unsaturated.

(80) Acids which can be used may include, for example, acetic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid, succinic acid, taurine and citric acid.

(81) One preferred acid is citric acid.

(82) The inorganic acid or acids present in the composition may be selected from monoacidic acids or polyacids.

(83) They include, for example, hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulphuric acid and boric acid.

(84) The acidic composition may for example have a pH of between 2 and 7, preferably between 3 and 4.

(85) Oxidizing Composition

(86) The fixing composition is an oxidizing composition.

(87) By “oxidizing composition” is meant compositions comprising, for example, one or more oxidizing agents selected for example from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, polythionates, and persalts, such as perborates, percarbonates and persulphates.

(88) The oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide.

(89) The oxidizing agent or agents may be present in an amount of between 0.1% and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

(90) Preferably, when the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide in aqueous solution, the oxidizing composition used in the method according to the invention comprises at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizer.

(91) Such stabilizers may include, for example, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, such as tetrasodium pyrophosphate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal stannates, phenacetin or salts of acids with oxyquinoline, such as oxyquinoline sulphate. Even more advantageously, at least one stannate is used alone or in combination with at least one pyrophosphate.

(92) The hydrogen peroxide stabilizer or stabilizers may be present in an amount of between 0.0001% and 5%, preferably between 0.01% and 2%, by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

(93) The oxidizing composition may for example have a pH of between 1.5 and 4.5, preferably between 2 and 3.5, especially when the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

(94) In one preferred exemplary embodiment, when it is applied before step a) or after step b), the oxidizing composition as defined above is left to act for approximately 2 to 30 minutes, preferably for 2 to 15 minutes, more particularly between 2 to 7 minutes at a temperature of between 20 and 40° C., preferably between 25 and 35° C. The oxidizing composition is preferably applied to clean and wet hair.

(95) The vehicle of the reducing and oxidizing compositions is preferably an aqueous medium composed of water and may advantageously contain cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, including, more particularly, alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. The organic solvents may in this case be present at concentrations of between approximately 0.1% and 20% and preferably between approximately 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(96) The pH of the oxidizing composition in the method according to the invention may be obtained and/or adjusted conventionally by addition either of one or more alkaline agents, such as those already mentioned in the reducing composition, or of acidifying agents such as, for example, hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid, citric acid and phosphoric acid.

(97) All of the compositions used in the method according to the invention may be present independently of one another in the form of a thickened or non-thickened lotion, a cream, a gel or a mousse.

(98) The examples which follow are given for purposes of illustration and have no limitative effect on the present invention.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Method for Durably Curling the Hair

(99) A dry lock of hair which is then moistened and shampooed is placed under mechanical stress, for example by being wound around a roller with a diameter of less than 3 cm with the two ends held fixed.

(100) The assembly is placed in an enclosure. The power and the duration of the microwave treatment are variable according to the intensity of curling which is desired.

(101) A final shampooing or a rinsing may optionally be performed.

(102) If the lock is dried entirely, the desired curling is not observed.

Example 2: Method for Smoothing the Hair

(103) A dry lock of hair, which is then moistened or shampooed, is stretched along a support with a length of between 1 and 20 cm, with the two ends held fixed.

(104) The assembly is then placed in an enclosure. The power and the duration of the microwave treatment are variable depending on the intensity of the smoothing that is desired.

(105) A final shampooing or a rinsing may optionally be performed.

(106) As a variant, the dry lock of hair, which is then moistened or shampooed, is placed directly between the jaws of an enclosure formed by a tongs.

(107) The mechanical tension is then obtained by pincering and by pulling the lock.

Example 3

(108) The lock of hair is pretreated, before the application of the microwaves, with a dyeing (by oxidation or direct) composition, a bleaching composition, a permanent wave, based for example on thiol reducing agents, a sodium hydroxide or guanidine hair straightening procedure, a care treatment, a hair mask or a shampoo, and then is curled as described in Example 1 or smoothed as described in Example 2.

Example 4: Method for Durably Curling or Smoothing the Hair, Employing a Shaping Composition

(109) The lock of hair, optionally shampooed, and wet or dry, is first of all impregnated with a shaping composition, with a mass bath ratio of 10 to 1.

(110) The resulting lock of hair is subsequently placed under mechanical stress. If the aim is to carry out a curling procedure, said lock is, for example, wound around a roller with a diameter of less than 3 cm, with the two ends held fixed.

(111) If the aim is to carry out a smoothing procedure, said lock of hair is stretched along a support with a length of between 1 and 20 cm, with the two ends held fixed.

(112) The assemblies thus obtained are placed in an enclosure. The power and the duration of the microwave treatment are variable depending on the intensity of the curling or smoothing that is desired.

(113) The lock of hair may subsequently be rinsed or shampooed on the support or else may be detached from the support.

(114) When the shaping composition comprises a reducing composition and when the lock of hair is not detached from the support, a fixing step comprising a step of applying an oxidizing composition may be carried out.

(115) As a variant, when the shaping composition comprises a composition comprising a hydroxide compound and when the lock is detached from the support, a fixing step comprising a step of applying an acidic composition may be carried out.

(116) A final shampooing or a rinsing may optionally be performed.

Example 5: Method for Durably Curling or Smoothing the Hair, Employing an Oxidizing Composition

(117) A lock of hair, optionally shampooed and wet, is treated, with a mass bath ratio of 10 to 1, with a shaping composition comprising a reducing composition. The shaping composition may be left to act for a variable time, depending on the desired performance.

(118) The lock is subsequently rinsed and then impregnated with an oxidizing composition, with a bath ratio of 10 to 1.

(119) The lock of hair is placed under mechanical stress.

(120) If the aim is to carry out curling, said lock is, for example, wound around a roller with a diameter of less than 3 cm, with the two ends held fixed.

(121) If the aim is to carry out smoothing, said lock is stretched along a support with a length of between 1 and 20 cm, with the two ends held fixed.

(122) The assemblies thus obtained are placed immediately in an enclosure. The power and the duration of the microwave treatment are variable depending on the intensity of the curling or smoothing that is desired.

(123) The lock thus treated may be rinsed or shampooed on the support or else may be detached from the support.

Example 6: Method for Durably Curling or Smoothing the Hair with a One-Step Pretreatment

(124) A lock of hair, optionally shampooed and wet, is treated, with a bath ratio of 10 to 1, with a shaping composition comprising a reducing composition, for a time which is variable depending on the desired performance.

(125) The lock of hair is then rinsed, then optionally dried, and placed under mechanical stress.

(126) If the aim is to carry out curling, said lock is, for example, wound around a roller with a diameter of less than 3 cm, with the two ends held fixed.

(127) If the aim is to carry out smoothing, said lock is stretched along a support with a length of between 1 and 20 cm, with the two ends held fixed.

(128) The assemblies thus obtained are placed in an enclosure. The power and the duration of the microwave treatment are variable depending on the intensity of the curling or smoothing that is desired.

(129) The lock thus treated may be rinsed or shampooed on the support or else may be detached from the support.

(130) When the shaping composition comprises a reducing composition and when the lock of hair is not detached from the support, a fixing step comprising a step of applying an oxidizing composition may be carried out.

(131) As a variant, when the shaping composition comprises a composition comprising a hydroxide compound and when the lock is detached from the support, a fixing step comprising a step of applying an acidic composition may be carried out.

(132) A final shampooing or a rinsing may optionally be performed.

Example 7: Method for Durably Curling or Smoothing the Hair, Comprising a Shaping Step and a Fixing Step, after the Treatment in the Enclosure

(133) The lock of hair, optionally shampooed, wet or dry, is placed under mechanical stress.

(134) If the aim is to carry out curling, said lock is, for example, wound around a roller with a diameter of less than 3 cm, with the two ends held fixed.

(135) If the aim is to carry out smoothing, said lock is stretched along a support with a length of between 1 and 20 cm, with the two ends held fixed.

(136) The assemblies thus obtained are placed in an enclosure. The power and the duration of the microwave treatment are variable depending on the intensity of the curling or smoothing that is desired.

(137) A final shampooing or a rinsing may optionally be performed.

(138) The lock, still placed on the support, is then treated with a shaping composition, with a bath ratio of 10 to 1, for a time which is variable depending on the desired performance, and then is rinsed.

(139) When the shaping composition comprises a reducing compound and when the lock of hair is not detached from the support, a fixing step comprising a step of applying an oxidizing composition may be carried out.

(140) As a variant, when the shaping composition comprises a hydroxide compound and when the lock is detached from the support, a fixing step comprising a step of applying an acidic composition may be carried out.

(141) A final shampooing or a rinsing may optionally be performed.

(142) In a variant of Examples 4 to 8, instead of being stretched along a support for smoothing, the lock of hair is placed between the jaws of the enclosure defined by a tongs. The mechanical tension is obtained by pincering and by pulling the lock.

Example 8

(143) The lock of hair may be treated, before the method according to the invention and the optional pretreatments, with a dyeing (by oxidation or direct), bleaching, care, hair mask or shampooing treatment, and then curled or smoothed according to the procedures described in Examples 4 to 7 above.

Example 9 (Comparative)

(144) Locks of stiff natural hair, of 0.35 g and 15 cm, which were wetted, were treated in two different ways. Treatment according to the invention with heating of water by microwaves according to Example 1

(145) TABLE-US-00001 Lock Microwave Temperature Pressure No. power Exposure time (° C.) (bar) 1 135 2 times 5 min 145 4 2 135 3 times 5 min 145 4 3 135 6 times 5 min 145 4 Treatment with a thioglycolic acid permanent wave treatment, Dulcia Vital 2 Force 1, for 15 minutes, followed by a fixing step with a duration of 5 minutes with the fixative Dulcia Vital 2 (No. 4).

(146) After these treatments, the locks were rinsed.

(147) FIG. 6 shows locks 1 to 4 after rinsing.

(148) Locks 1 to 4 were subsequently shampooed 5 times. The results are shown in FIG. 7.

(149) It is observed that the shaping performance on locks 1, 2 and 3 is better than on those treated with the permanent wave treatment (lock 4).

Example 10 (Comparative)

(150) Locks of stiff natural hair, of 0.35 g and 15 cm, which were wetted, were treated in two different ways. Treatment according to the invention with heating of water by microwaves according to Example 1 (No. 1):

(151) TABLE-US-00002 Power Temperature Pressure (W) Exposure time (° C.) (bar) 135 6 times 5 min 145 4 Treatment with a thioglycolic acid permanent wave treatment, Dulcia Vital 2 Force 1, for 15 minutes, followed by a fixing step with a duration of 5 minutes with the fixative Dulcia Vital 2 (No. 2).

(152) After these treatments, the locks were rinsed and underwent various strength tests: effect of ten standard shampooings, effect of four alternating shampooings/straightening cycles, effect of four shampooing/straightening cycles followed by ten shampooings. The results are shown in FIG. 8.

(153) It is observed that lock No. 1 exhibits better strength following the various tests than lock No. 2.

Example 11 (Comparative)

(154) Locks of curly natural hair, of 0.35 g and 15 cm, which were wetted, were treated in two different ways. Treatment according to the invention with heating of water by microwaves according to Example 2 (No. 1):

(155) TABLE-US-00003 Power Temperature Pressure (W) Exposure time (° C.) (bar) 135 6 times 5 min 145 4 Thioglycolic acid smoothing with the smoothing product X-Tenso for 20 min, followed by 10 min of fixing with the neutralizing fixative milk X-Tenso (No. 2). After these treatments, the locks were rinsed and shampooed. The results are shown in FIG. 9.

(156) It is observed that, with the invention, smoothing performances are obtained that are identical to the state of the art, without the use of reducing agent and oxidizing agent.

Example 12

(157) Locks of stiff natural Caucasian hair, of 0.35 g and 15 cm, were treated in two ways. Treatment according to the invention according to Example 4:

(158) Shaping composition: 0.5 M aqueous solution of thioglycolic acid

(159) Production of curls (locks on rollers)

(160) Microwave/vapour treatment: P=135 W; T=145° C.; p=4 bar; duration of exposure: 5 min

(161) Rinsing of the locks on rollers

(162) 5 min of fixing with an oxidizing composition

(163) Final shampooing Comparative

(164) Shaping composition: 1 M aqueous solution of thioglycolic acid

(165) Production of curls (locks on rollers)

(166) 20 min of waiting at 25° C.

(167) Rinsing of the locks on rollers

(168) 5 min of fixing with an oxidizing composition

(169) Final shampooing

(170) The microwave/vapour treatment produces a shaping result which is identical to the state of the art, with a reduced concentration of thioglycolic acid.

(171) Owing to the reduced concentration and to the shorter treatment time, the lock is less damaged and the feel is more cosmetic.

Example 13

(172) Locks of curly natural African hair, of 0.35 g and 15 cm, were treated in two ways: Treatment of the invention according to Example 4:

(173) Shaping composition: 0.3 M aqueous sodium hydroxide solution

(174) Hair straightening (locks stretched along a support)

(175) Microwave/vapour treatment: P=135 W; T=145° C.; p=4 bar; duration of exposure: 5 min

(176) Shampooing with an acidic composition Comparative

(177) Shaping composition: 0.6 M aqueous sodium hydroxide solution

(178) Hair straightening (locks worked with the hand)

(179) 20 min of waiting at 25° C.

(180) Shampooing with an acid composition

(181) The microwave/vapour treatment produces a straightening result which is identical to the state of the art, with a reduced concentration of sodium hydroxide.

(182) Owing to the reduced concentration and to the shorter treatment time, the lock is less damaged and the feel is more cosmetic.

(183) The expression “comprising a/one” should be understood as “comprising at least one”.

(184) The expression “of between” should be understood with the end points included.