A process for converting post-industrial or post-consumer waste leather materials to leather fibers is disclosed. The process involves obtaining post-industrial or post-consumer waste leather materials with a surface finish, removing the surface finish, reduced the size of the materials to a size between about 0.5 and about 3 inches in length and in width, and adding a surfactant. After the surfactant has been added, the waste leather materials are again reduced in size to between 3 mm and 9 mm in length to form leather fibers, and a humectant and/or lubricant is added to the fibers, optionally after first opening up with steam. FTIR or other analytical chemistry can be used to identify the surface finishes before they are removed, which allows for selection of the most appropriate treatment to remove the finish.