UPPER BODY GARMENT
20180352883 ยท 2018-12-13
Inventors
Cpc classification
B32B27/322
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B32B27/12
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B32B2255/10
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
A41D13/0015
HUMAN NECESSITIES
B32B7/12
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B32B2307/724
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B32B2250/246
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
International classification
B32B7/12
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B32B27/12
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
B32B5/02
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
Abstract
Disclosed is a water vapor permeable upper body garment (10) having a front side and a back side, said upper body garment (10) having the configuration of a single shell garment formed by an outer shell laminate, said outer shell laminate formed at least partly by a stretchable functional laminate; said stretchable functional laminate comprising a first functional film layer and a first textile layer attached to the first functional film layer, said stretchable laminate having a stretch force at 20% elongation of less than 1 N per cm of width; said stretchable functional laminate covering at least an upper central portion on the back side (12) of the upper body garment (10).
Claims
1. A water vapor permeable upper body garment having a front side and a back side, said upper body garment having the configuration of a single shell garment formed by an outer shell laminate, said outer shell laminate formed at least partly by a stretchable functional laminate; said stretchable functional laminate comprising a first functional film layer and a first textile layer attached to the first functional film layer, said stretchable laminate having a stretch force at 20% elongation of less than 1 N per cm of width; and said stretchable functional laminate covering at least an upper central portion on the back side of the upper body garment.
2. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 1, wherein the upper body garment is waterproof.
3. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 1, wherein the stretchable functional laminate covers at least 10% of the surface area of the outer shell of the upper body garment.
4. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 1, wherein the stretchable functional laminate comprises a first panel of stretchable functional laminate covering the upper central portion on the back side of the upper body garment, the first panel having any of an oval shape, a rectangular shape, a triangular shape and a trapezoidal shape.
5. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 4, wherein the first panel of stretchable functional laminate is positioned laterally such as to cover the spinal column of a person wearing the upper body garment.
6. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 4, wherein the first panel of stretchable functional laminate is positioned vertically such that a longitudinal axis of the first panel of stretchable functional laminate extends along the spinal column of a person wearing the upper body garment.
7. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 4, wherein the first panel of stretchable functional laminate has a main direction of stretchability which is oriented in horizontal direction.
8. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 4, wherein the first panel of the stretchable functional laminate is connected to a further functional laminate by a waterproof seam.
9. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 4, wherein the first panel covers between 5% and 50% of the surface area of the outer shell of the upper body garment.
10. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 8, wherein the stretchable functional laminate comprises the first panel covering the upper central portion on the back side of the upper body garment, and at least a second panel covering respective lateral portions of the upper body garment connecting the front side and the back side.
11. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 10, including two arm sleeves, the second panels located below an arm pit covered by each of the arm sleeves, respectively.
12. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 1, having the configuration of a close fit garment.
13. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 1, having a garment resistance force as defined herein of 200 N or lower.
14. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 1, having a resistance to evaporative heat transfer RET of 30 m.sup.2 Pa/W or lower.
15. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 1, wherein the stretchable functional laminate comprises a three dimensional configuration.
16. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 1, wherein the first textile layer is attached to the first functional film layer by an adhesive layer.
17. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 16, wherein the adhesive layer of the stretchable functional laminate forms an adhesive pattern including at least two adhesive regions separated by at least one non adhesive region substantially free of adhesive.
18. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 17, wherein the stretchable functional laminate is curled in regions corresponding to said adhesive regions such as to form a visible pattern on the outer surface of said outer shell with bulges formed in regions corresponding to said non-adhesive regions.
19. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 1 wherein the stretchable functional laminate comprises a second textile layer attached to the first functional film layer on its side opposite the first textile layer.
20. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 19, wherein the second textile forms an inner lining of said upper body garment.
21. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 2, including a waterproof and water vapor permeable functional shell made up with at least one panel of the stretchable functional laminate and at least one panel of a non-stretchable functional laminate comprising a second waterproof and water vapor permeable functional film layer; the panels of stretchable functional laminate and non-stretchable functional laminate being connected by a liquidproof seam.
22. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 21, wherein the liquidproof seam comprises a seam tape.
23. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 21, wherein the panel of non-stretchable functional laminate comprises flat surfaces.
24. The water vapor permeable upper body garment according to claim 1, having the configuration of a jacket.
Description
[0056] The invention will be described in more detail in the following by way of exemplary embodiments which are sown in the figures. These show:
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[0067] The upper body garment 10 comprises the back side 12, a front side 14 (see
[0068] The back side 12 of the upper garment 10 comprises a first panel 20 made from a stretchable functional laminate. The first panel 20 has an elongate shape with a longitudinal axis X thereof extending basically in vertical direction, i.e. parallel to the spinal column of a person wearing the upper body garment 10. The stretchable functional laminate has characteristics as set forth herein. Particularly, the stretchable functional laminate is breathable and waterproof and may have elastic characteristics. The first panel 20 is connected to a basic functional laminate 22 by a waterproof seam 24. The basic functional laminate 22 is made of a non-stretchable functional laminate having breathability and waterproofness characteristics as desired. In the embodiments shown in
[0069] Moreover, the first panel 20 of stretchable functional laminate may have a lateral extension w of at least 25% of the total width W of the back side of the upper garment. The first panel 20 is symmetrical with respect to the longitudinal axis X. Hence, the lateral extension w may be measured from the longitudinal axis X and extend 12.5% of the total width W of the back side 12 of the upper garment 10 towards each side in lateral direction. In the embodiments shown the longitudinal axis X of the first panel 20 is located centrally on the back side 12, i.e. extends basically along the spinal column of a person wearing the upper body garment 10. Therefore, the first panel 20 is located centrally on the back side 12 in lateral direction.
[0070] Particularly, the first panel 20 of stretchable functional laminate may cover between 25 and 35% of the area of the back side 12 of the upper body garment 10. The centre C of the first panel 20 may be located at around 25% of the length L of the back side 12 of the upper body garment 10, starting from the top of the back side 12. Moreover, the centre C of the first panel 20 of stretchable functional laminate may be located at 50% of the width W of the back side 12 of the upper body garment 10. The length l of the first panel 20 may be between 50% and 70% of the total length L of the back side 12 of the upper body garment 10, measured starting from the top of the back side downwards. The width w of the first panel 20 may be between 25% and 35% of the total width W of the back side of the upper body garment, symmetrical to the central vertical axis X of the back side 12 in lateral direction.
[0071] Particularly, the first panel 20 may cover between 5% and 50% of the total surface area of the outer shell of the upper body garment 10, particularly between 10% and 35%, particularly between 15% and 25%.
[0072] In the embodiments shown in
[0073] Other shapes of the first panel 20 of stretchable functional material are conceivable as well, e.g. a triangular shape, a trapezoidal shape, or a more complex shape like the shape of the first panel 20 shown in
[0074] The main direction of stretchability (or elasticity in case of a functional laminate having elastic characteristics) of the stretchable functional laminate forming the first panel 20 is indicated by reference numeral E1 in
[0075] While the embodiments shown in
[0076] The second panels 26 of stretchable functional laminate cover respective lateral portions of the upper body garment 10 connecting the back side 12 and the front side 14. In embodiments which include left and right arm sleeves 16, 18, the second panels 26 may be located below the arm pit of each of the arm sleeves 16, 18, as shown in
[0077] The two third panels 28 of stretchable functional laminate are located on the left and right arm sleeves 16 and 18, in a region at the elbow, respectively. These third panels 28 have a main direction of stretchability E3 along the longitudinal extension of the respective arm sleeve 28, as indicated by the double sided arrows E3. The third panels 26 also may have a generally circular shape or oval shape.
Test Procedures:
Suter Test for Liquid-Proof Fabrics
[0078] The Suter Test Method was used to determine if a sample was liquid-proof. This procedure is based generally on the description in ASTM D 751-00 (2000), Standard Test Methods for Coated Fabrics (Hydrostatic Resistance Procedure B2). This procedure provides a low pressure challenge to the sample being tested by forcing water against one side of the test sample and observing the other side for indication that water has penetrated through the sample.
[0079] The test sample was clamped and sealed between rubber gaskets in a fixture that held the sample so that water could be applied to a specific area. The circular area to which water was applied was 10.795 cm (4.25 inches) in diameter. The water was applied at a pressure of 7 kPa (0.07 bar) to one side of the sample. In testing laminates with one textile layer the pressurized water was incident upon the film side.
[0080] The unpressurized side of the sample was observed visually for any sign of water appearing for 3 minutes. If no water was observed the sample was deemed to have passed the test and was considered liquid-proof. The reported values were the average of three measurements.
[0081] Rain Tower Test
[0082] The rain tower test was used to determine whether a garment is waterproof in a real rain situation. The testing procedure is described in the standard EN 14360 (2004). A mannequin with a standard size of an adult person (182040 mm height and 100060 mm torso circumference) is placed under a rain tower. The rain tower has a shower head of at least 1000 mm circumference. The shower head is placed at least 5000 mm above the ground level. The shower head contains around 682 nozzles with a circumference of 0.6 mm each, in a distance of 34 mm from each other. Therefore, the rain tower should be able to produce a rain density of 1000 drops/m.sup.2 over a circular area with a total circumference of 932 mm.
[0083] During testing, the mannequin wears water absorbent underwear (T-shirt and trousers) under the upper garment (e.g. a jacket). The rain fall time is set at 60 min. Subsequently, the tested upper garment should rest for 2 min on the mannequin before being carefully removed. After the removal of the upper garment, the total wetted area of the underwear is identified and quantified in cm.sup.2.
[0084] For determining waterproofness of an upper garment, at least two samples of the upper garment of the same type should be tested.
Stretch Force Measurement
[0085] Stretch force measurement was carried out following the procedures set out in EN14704-1:2005. The force to elongate of the samples was measured using an Instron universal testing machine (Model 5565) with a 500N load cell. A 50 mm by 100 mm sample of material was cut with the long dimension oriented in the direction of maximum elongation. The ends of the sample were clamped together in the pneumatic clamp grips such that there was neither tension nor slack in the sample and proper alignment of the sample to the traverse direction is maintained. The sample was stretched at a cross-head displacement rate of 100 mm/min to x 300N for the non-elastic laminates/30N for the elastic laminates and retracted to zero displacement (the start position when the experiment started) to complete the hysteresis cycle. This was repeated for three cycles. From the third cycle the load at 20% strain was recorded from the output data file. The reported values represent the average of three measurements. The elastic recovery is expressed in percent in relation to the total amount of elongation put into the sample as shown by the following equation:
where,
R=Elastic recovery (%)
D=Recovered elongation
S=Laminate elongation
Breathability
[0086] Breathability is defined as the resistance to evaporative heat transfer provided by a laminate, and is quantified by RET (resistance to evaporative heat transfer) values as described in ISO 11092 (1993).
[0087] The ISO 11092 or the RET or Hohenstein test is also called sweating hot plate test. In this test a fabric (e.g. a laminate) is placed above a porous (sintered) metal plate. The plate is heated and water is channelled into the metal plate, simulating perspiration. The plate is then kept at a constant temperature. As water vapor passes through the plate and the fabric, it causes evaporative heat loss and therefore more energy is needed to keep the plate at a constant temperature. RET is the measurement of the resistance to evaporative heat loss. The lower the RET value, the less resistance to moisture transfer is provided by the fabric, and therefore the higher is the breathability of the fabric.
[0088] A fabric (e.g. a laminate) is considered breathable in case it has an RET value of 20 m.sup.2 Pa/W, or lower.
Measurement of Resistance to Evaporation of a Garment (RE)
[0089] The Hohenstein test was modified to measure resistance to evaporation of a garment. Other than a fabric (e.g. a laminate), a garment has a 3 dimensional structure. To allow a sweating hot sample test, similar to the sweating hot plate of the Hohenstein test, a sweating torso test was developed and carried out.
[0090] In the sweating torso test for measuring cooling power of personal cooling systems, sweating mannequins are generally used for measuring the evaporative resistance of a garment. The mannequin skin is covered by tight fitting cotton and then wetted, either at the beginning of a test, and/or continually. When the mannequin surface and the test chamber are the same temperature, the electric power required to keep the mannequin surface at constant temperature is detected. This electric power is proportional to the evaporative resistance of the garment. In order to simplify and speed up the test procedure, a specific sweating torso has been built and used to facilitate the testing of prototypes. The sweating torso has a cotton skin. Ten heating pads are attached to the cotton skin of the torso. Eight of these heating pads are controlled such as to remain at a pre-given temperature. The other two heating pads are configured to provide the neck and lower waist of the garment to be tested and serve as guard rings. Two of the heating pads cover the top and bottom portion of the front side of the torso. Two of the heating pads cover the top and bottom portion of the back side of the torso. Two further heating elements may be provided at the two lateral portions of the torso. The other two heating elements are provided at the shoulders of the torso.
[0091] During each sweating torso test for measuring cooling power of a garment, the power provided to the torso was controlled in such a way that the surface temperature of the torso is kept at 35 C. The torso is kept in a chamber, generally at 35 C. and 50% relative humidity. The electric power provided to each of the eight heaters has been monitored.
[0092] Typically, data from a sweating torso test with respect to a torso and a garment fitted to the torso, are obtained by splitting the heating in 8 zones. The 8 heating zones are designed to cover areas which are differently effected in clothing. Thus e.g. the distribution of the cooling over the torso can be examined. From knowledge of the air flow rate, temperature, and humidity of the inlet air, the difference in enthalpy between the wet torso skin and the inlet air, the maximum theoretical cooling can be calculated and then compared to that measured. The water weight loss at the end of the test can also be measured since the torso is supported on a balance.
[0093] Technical data of the test installation were as follows:
Max. heating power 900 W
Max. sweat rate 4800 g/hour
8 heating zones 2 heated guard zones
Balance for recording weight loss
[0094] The cotton vest of a mannequin was pre-wetted prior to each test. During the measurement of cooling power, water was supplied at a rate equivalent to the expected cooling power, e.g. 4.6 g/minute was used for cooling powers of about 185 W.
[0095] The RE data for the garment comparison were measured by a wind speed of 0.5 m/s and by a temperature of 35 C.
Garment Resistance Force
[0096] The measurement of the garment resistance force was used to determine the force needed by the wearer of the garment to perform standardized movements. The garment resistance force was quantified with the help of 660 capacitive force sensors with an area of 1 cm.sup.2 each, placed on the back (over the shoulder blades), on the right upper arm and on the shoulder of the test person, as indicated in
(i) Subjects crossing their stretched right arm in front of the body, in a combination of shoulder flexion and adduction, see
(ii) The simulation of a shoe lacing situation, see
[0097] Each movement was repeated three times. The mean force calculated out of these three repetitions resulted in the garment restriction force.
EXAMPLES
Example 1 (Stretchable Laminate)
[0098] Example 1 is a stretchable functional laminate manufactured as set out in WO2014/151223. Said stretchable functional laminate also demonstrates elastic properties.
[0099] A length of 165 g/m.sup.2 nylon/elastane stretch woven material (Style 544B from Gehring-Tricot Corp., Garden City, N.Y.) and a length of polyurethane-coated ePTFE were obtained. The ePTFE had the following properties: thickness=0.043 mm, density=0.41 g/cc, matrix tensile strength in the length direction=3110.sup.6 MPa, matrix tensile strength in the width direction=9310.sup.6 MPa, Bubble Point=1.510.sup.5 MPa. Polyurethane (PU) was applied by coating the ePTFE membrane and allowing it to at least partially penetrate the pores of the membrane, then cured.
[0100] A release paper 215 was laser cut using the honeycomb (hexagonal) pattern shown in
[0101] Alternatively to the procedure utilized in this example, an alternative procedure could have been used, as shown in
[0102]
[0103] Additional adhesive dots were also applied to the coated side of the ePTFE, and a third layer of textile, a 37.3 g/m.sup.2 polyester knit (Style A1012 from Glen Raven, Glen Raven, N.C.) was added to the adhesive on the side opposing the nylon woven textile.
[0104] Following moisture curing, the laminate was unspooled and allowed to relax, thereby returning to the initial, un-tensioned state of the textile. The hexagonal pattern was visible by the naked eye. The sample exhibited localized curling in the areas corresponding to the hexagonal voids in the release paper. The concave surface of these areas was towards the woven textile side of the laminate.
Example 2 (Non-Stretchable Laminate)
[0105] Example 2 is a non-stretchable laminate.
[0106] The non-stretchable laminate is a 3 layer laminate made of a polyurethane-coated ePTFE membrane attached on one side to a woven (plain 1/1) face fabric of 100% polyamide and on the other side to a woven (plain 1/1) backing fabric material. Said laminate is commercially available under the part no SALN000600GA by W.L. Gore & Associates. The non-stretchable laminate has a weight of 75 g/m.sup.2 and an Ret of 4.5. The sample is water proof and breathable. The non-stretchable laminate shows a stretch to force at 20% elongation of 48N/cm.
Example 3 (Upper Body Garment)
[0107] A garment (jacket) was made combining a non-stretchable functional laminate according to example 2 and panels of the stretchable laminate according to example 1. The garment had a configuration as shown in
[0108] A total of 5 stretchable panels were placed on the garment, as follows:
(i) An oval-shaped first panel was located on the back side of the garment, covering an area of 874 cm.sup.2 or around 7% of the whole area of the garment. The panel had a maximum length of 53 cm and a maximum width of 21 cm. The center of the panel was located at around 35% of the total length (measured from the top) and at 50% of the total width (along the longitudinal axis the body) of the back side of the garment. This panel had a main direction of stretchability in the horizontal direction.
(ii) Two circular second panels (stretchable area represents of the total area) were located under the arm pit, one at each side of the jacket, with an area of 462 cm.sup.2 each (total: 924 cm.sup.2) or around 8% of the total area of the garment. These second panels had a main direction of stretchability in the vertical direction.
(iii) Two oval-shaped third panels were located on the elbow, one at each side of the jacket, with an area of 236 cm.sup.2 each (total: 472 cm.sup.2) or around 5% of the total area of the garment. These third panels had a main direction of stretchability in the vertical direction.
[0109] The stretchable garment (jacket) had an EU-size 52 and was made in a close fit style according to definition presented in table 1. The garment was conceived as a long-sleeve jacket comprised of a single shell, whereby the single shell was made of the non-stretchable laminate attached to the 5 panels of stretchable laminate by using waterproof seams, according to the Suter test procedure described herein.
Example 4 (Comparative Garment Made of Non-Stretchable Laminate)
[0110] Comparative Example 4 is a garment (jacket) made of the non-stretchable laminate as in example 2. The garment had an EU size 56 (XXL) and was constructed as an outer shell garment with a regular fit (according to values showed in table 1). The garment was constructed as a long-sleeve jacket, completely composed by the laminate as in example 2.
Example 5 (Comparative Garment Made of Non-Stretchable Laminate)
[0111] Comparative Example 5 was a garment (jacket) made of the non-stretchable laminate as in example 2. The garment had an EU size 52 (L) and was constructed as an outer shell garment with a regular fit (according to values showed in table 1). The garment was constructed as a long-sleeve jacket, completely composed by the laminate as in example 2.
Laminate Comparison:
[0112] Table 2 shows a comparison of various characteristics of the laminates according to examples 1 and 2.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Example 1 Example 2 (stretchable (non stretchable laminate) laminate Test method Laminate weight 267 g/m.sup.2 75 g/m.sup.2 ISO 3801, method 5/ EN12127 Ret 9.6 <4.5 EN31092/ (m.sup.2Pa/W) ISO11092 Force to elongate 0.37 N/cm 48 N/cm EN 14704-1:2005 at 20% elongation Recovery at 20% 98% 94% EN 14704-1:2005 elongation Liquid-proof Yes Yes EN 20811/ISO (resistance to 811 water penetration (kPa)
[0113] The values depicted in table 2 clearly show the differences in elasticity between the laminates according to examples 1 and 2. While Example 1 is a highly elastic material, easily reaching 20% elongation at very low force values with good recovery values, laminate 2 needs about 100-time higher forces to reach the same level of elongation and does not show the same recovery as laminate 1.
Garment Comparison:
[0114] Table 3 shows a comparison of various characteristics of the garments according to examples 3 to 5.
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Comparative Comparative Example 5 (non- Example 4 (non- stretchable stretchable Example 3 garment) with garment) with (Stretchable regular fit, size regular fit, size garment) close fit, 52 (L) 56 (XXL) size 52 (L) Test method Re for 30.1 m.sup.2 .Math. Pa/W 40.0 m.sup.2 .Math. Pa/W 31.1 m.sup.2 .Math. Pa/W Sweating Torso garment Liquid-proof Yes Yes Yes Rain tower Freedom of 112.8 (17.5) N 71.0 (12.3) 53.7 (24.8) Garment movement (i) resistance force Freedom of 205.1 (22.7) 161.1 (11.1) 143.1 (38.8) Garment movement (ii) resistance force
[0115] The values depicted in table 2 show the functional advantages of using an elastic laminate according to example 1 in a jacket. When comparing the garment including patches of stretchable laminate (example 3) to the garment according to comparative example 5 (non-stretchable garment with size L), both jackets show similar levels of evaporative resistance (garment RE) but the stretchable garment according to example 3 has a clear advantage regarding freedom of movement, with much lower garment restriction force values. On the other hand, when comparing the garment including panels of stretchable laminate according to example 3 to the garment according to comparative example 4 (non-stretchable garment size XXL), both jackets show good levels of freedom of movement, but the evaporative resistance of the garment according to comparative example 5 is much higher compared to the garment including panels of stretachble laminate according to example 3. This effect is attributed to the fact that in the garment according to comparative example 4 bigger air gaps exist, as a consequence of its bigger size. Therefore, a garment including panels of stretchable laminate allows a combination of optimal freedom of movement, due to its elasticity, and low evaporative resistance, due to the closer fit allowed by the elastic materials.